Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep Merli, I learnt the hard way with a fuel pump upgrade and stock ecu.

No point wasting money on tuning the ecu to suit the RB20 when the RB30 will be in there soon.

Short motor should be ready 3rd maybe 4th week of Jan (waiting on forged pistons). Head etc.. is already done.

Its going to be run in with low boost and stock ecu with the rings bedded in on the dyno and a few checks to make sure the stock ecu will not run to rich/lean etc.

I've been told to run it in with the stock ecu then slap in the new ecu with injectors turbo and let it rip.

terry.m, good idea getting a decent Jap exhaust.

You can pick them (cat back) up in stainless for $700 in excellent condition second hand. They do bolt on exactly. From there look at a front pipe and highflow cat (or decat pipe - for racing use only of course:))

I noticed you have a '95 skyline - seems several people here have had some good results with the 95 ecu, in some cases it seems to produce alot closer to 'good' air fuel ratios than some of the other years.

Getting a bleed valve and putting the car on a dyno will tell you alot more about where your AFRs are. From here I would recommend a cooler - as colder charge air will deliver alot more power, I fried my clutch as soon as my cooler was fitted (but I already had a power fc).

From here, if needed, engine management of some type. There are heaps of different options around, and as merli posted earlier, get it right the first time and save a fortune ( I have got it wrong a couple of times, and both times it ended up costing me over $1000+ to learn the hard way:))

Also, dont forget suspension and brakes. By setting up your suspension correctly, you will be able to get the power down alot easier. Simple and relatively cheap options like cradle bushes help, also, not a cheap one, but decent coilover suspension or coils and shocks will make a huge difference to how the car drives - and driving pleasure is what it is all about.

You will probably realise that you can spend as much money as you want, but do it smart and you wont regret it.

Lastly (but not least), welcome to SAU.

Steve

Thanx Steve,

It looks like I may have to hold the mods off for a while...I am suspecting a new clutch is needed. On 2 occasions now, I've reved to around 3000 - 4000 rpm, let the clutch out and...nothing! The revs go up to 6000rpm but I'm not going anywhere. The stupid thing is that it doesnt happen all the time. I tried taking off in 5th at 1500rpm and the engine stalled, this tells me that there is nothing wrong with it. There is no crunching in any gears except for the infamous 1st to second cold change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...