Jump to content
SAU Community

Slight Mods

terry.m

By terry.m,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Yep Merli, I learnt the hard way with a fuel pump upgrade and stock ecu.

No point wasting money on tuning the ecu to suit the RB20 when the RB30 will be in there soon.

Short motor should be ready 3rd maybe 4th week of Jan (waiting on forged pistons). Head etc.. is already done.

Its going to be run in with low boost and stock ecu with the rings bedded in on the dyno and a few checks to make sure the stock ecu will not run to rich/lean etc.

I've been told to run it in with the stock ecu then slap in the new ecu with injectors turbo and let it rip.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

terry.m, good idea getting a decent Jap exhaust.

You can pick them (cat back) up in stainless for $700 in excellent condition second hand. They do bolt on exactly. From there look at a front pipe and highflow cat (or decat pipe - for racing use only of course:))

I noticed you have a '95 skyline - seems several people here have had some good results with the 95 ecu, in some cases it seems to produce alot closer to 'good' air fuel ratios than some of the other years.

Getting a bleed valve and putting the car on a dyno will tell you alot more about where your AFRs are. From here I would recommend a cooler - as colder charge air will deliver alot more power, I fried my clutch as soon as my cooler was fitted (but I already had a power fc).

From here, if needed, engine management of some type. There are heaps of different options around, and as merli posted earlier, get it right the first time and save a fortune ( I have got it wrong a couple of times, and both times it ended up costing me over $1000+ to learn the hard way:))

Also, dont forget suspension and brakes. By setting up your suspension correctly, you will be able to get the power down alot easier. Simple and relatively cheap options like cradle bushes help, also, not a cheap one, but decent coilover suspension or coils and shocks will make a huge difference to how the car drives - and driving pleasure is what it is all about.

You will probably realise that you can spend as much money as you want, but do it smart and you wont regret it.

Lastly (but not least), welcome to SAU.

Steve

terry.m Enthusiast

terry.m

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanx Steve,

It looks like I may have to hold the mods off for a while...I am suspecting a new clutch is needed. On 2 occasions now, I've reved to around 3000 - 4000 rpm, let the clutch out and...nothing! The revs go up to 6000rpm but I'm not going anywhere. The stupid thing is that it doesnt happen all the time. I tried taking off in 5th at 1500rpm and the engine stalled, this tells me that there is nothing wrong with it. There is no crunching in any gears except for the infamous 1st to second cold change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • GTSBoy
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...