Jump to content
SAU Community

(vic) C210 Spotted On Wreckers Website

jrh001

By jrh001,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted

I haven't seen the car but here's the link: http://www.jollysupullit.com.au/eziparts/D...E%2003/78-01/81

The web searching for this yard (Dandenong, Vic) is excellent, pics of all the cars and an inventory of parts removed.

JH

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Who's going to buy it? if it's cheap enough I wouldn't mind it. Shame they were closed today, couldn't get any answers.

They were open today. I don't think they ever answer the phone (at least the advertised public number). Try the email address on their contact page. http://www.jollysupullit.com.au/WebPage/WebPage.asp?Ref=6954. 

JH

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

seen it, was there looking for sum toyota parts, and saw it few weeks ago. asked if i cud buy it, they said no, i came back a day or 2 later and i asked again, they said they dont sell cars off the lot. i came there 2day to ask em if i cud buy it just b4 they move it onto scrap so it doesn't get scraped for metal and they said no.........

bloody car murderers i tellz ya *crys*

Edited by Dan_J
passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

WOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN RETRIEVING PARTS OFF THIS FOR ME. I WILL PAY BY THE HOUR< SAY $50PH. The convenience of just having engine mounts and Gbox mounts pre made out ways cost, epecially when you've got to cart things back and forth to engineers.There's also some other bits and pieces I'd like also.

Gordie Collaborator

Gordie

Posted
Posted

RB engine and box conversion is pretty straight forward for what i've been told. (one of my coupes had a s/c rb30 in it, but i got it as a roller)

Use rb rubber engine mounts, need to cut about an inch down off the drivers side engine bracket, reuse L series g/box x member and tailshaft. (unless using a 25 box, need to shorten tailshaft)

I also have a modifed engine bracket out of a rb20 c210 that was wrecked down here.

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted
post-44326-1264493685_thumb.jpgSo Gordie are you saying the RB30 5 speed and possibly the RB30et box will need no special Gbox X member, the L series will bolt up to it with NO alteration? The L series drive shaft yoke will plumb nicely into the RB Gbox? So in this pic, I'm looking at ( this is the one at Jollys') the Rb30 engine mount and the rubber is also RB30. Now the main piece attached to the chassis is ? C210 or RB
Gordie Collaborator

Gordie

Posted
Posted

Looks like stock rb30 bracket and mount to me in that pic. Got a pic of the other side? other side should be shorter.

Engine x member should be a c210 one, well at least mine is.

Tail shaft yoke is the same size/spline, not 100% that lenght is the same, but i was told that it fits staight in, il measure mine up tomorrow to double check.

You can even reuse your L series gearbox, just need to slog out the top to bellhousing bolts, and modify the gear shifter because it will be on a angle due to the way the rb mounts up.

As for gearbox x member im not 100% as my coupe didnt come with one, but i was told a c210 one will fit the rb box.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Ricky I'll get some more pics of the car when I go out and have a look at it. If you like I'll give you a buzz when I'm there to see if you still want anything - but buy the sounds of it you may not need mounts etc. Cheers Drew

passin ewe Proficient

passin ewe

Posted
Posted

Your a champ Drew, I'll still take mounts anyway if your prepared to pull them. Knowing myself tomorrow it'll be a SR20. Are you looking at it before saturday? it's just that i'm away to Bali for 6 nights Sat onwards.

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did the bonnet have some of the reo underneath it cut out to clear the manifold?

...

Bonnet was gone when I saw the car. There's an old pic on Jolly's website showing the underside of the bonnet (link is in first post of this thread).

JH

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted
has anyone had any success contacting this mob? ive tried to call, and sent a email. with no response to both.

Hi,

I may be able to get parts for you. What parts are you after?

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...