Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't seen the car but here's the link: http://www.jollysupullit.com.au/eziparts/D...E%2003/78-01/81

The web searching for this yard (Dandenong, Vic) is excellent, pics of all the cars and an inventory of parts removed.

JH

Who's going to buy it? if it's cheap enough I wouldn't mind it. Shame they were closed today, couldn't get any answers.

They were open today. I don't think they ever answer the phone (at least the advertised public number). Try the email address on their contact page. http://www.jollysupullit.com.au/WebPage/WebPage.asp?Ref=6954

JH

seen it, was there looking for sum toyota parts, and saw it few weeks ago. asked if i cud buy it, they said no, i came back a day or 2 later and i asked again, they said they dont sell cars off the lot. i came there 2day to ask em if i cud buy it just b4 they move it onto scrap so it doesn't get scraped for metal and they said no.........

bloody car murderers i tellz ya *crys*

Edited by Dan_J

WOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN RETRIEVING PARTS OFF THIS FOR ME. I WILL PAY BY THE HOUR< SAY $50PH. The convenience of just having engine mounts and Gbox mounts pre made out ways cost, epecially when you've got to cart things back and forth to engineers.There's also some other bits and pieces I'd like also.

RB engine and box conversion is pretty straight forward for what i've been told. (one of my coupes had a s/c rb30 in it, but i got it as a roller)

Use rb rubber engine mounts, need to cut about an inch down off the drivers side engine bracket, reuse L series g/box x member and tailshaft. (unless using a 25 box, need to shorten tailshaft)

I also have a modifed engine bracket out of a rb20 c210 that was wrecked down here.

post-44326-1264493685_thumb.jpgSo Gordie are you saying the RB30 5 speed and possibly the RB30et box will need no special Gbox X member, the L series will bolt up to it with NO alteration? The L series drive shaft yoke will plumb nicely into the RB Gbox? So in this pic, I'm looking at ( this is the one at Jollys') the Rb30 engine mount and the rubber is also RB30. Now the main piece attached to the chassis is ? C210 or RB

Looks like stock rb30 bracket and mount to me in that pic. Got a pic of the other side? other side should be shorter.

Engine x member should be a c210 one, well at least mine is.

Tail shaft yoke is the same size/spline, not 100% that lenght is the same, but i was told that it fits staight in, il measure mine up tomorrow to double check.

You can even reuse your L series gearbox, just need to slog out the top to bellhousing bolts, and modify the gear shifter because it will be on a angle due to the way the rb mounts up.

As for gearbox x member im not 100% as my coupe didnt come with one, but i was told a c210 one will fit the rb box.

Ricky I'll get some more pics of the car when I go out and have a look at it. If you like I'll give you a buzz when I'm there to see if you still want anything - but buy the sounds of it you may not need mounts etc. Cheers Drew

Your a champ Drew, I'll still take mounts anyway if your prepared to pull them. Knowing myself tomorrow it'll be a SR20. Are you looking at it before saturday? it's just that i'm away to Bali for 6 nights Sat onwards.

Did the bonnet have some of the reo underneath it cut out to clear the manifold?

...

Bonnet was gone when I saw the car. There's an old pic on Jolly's website showing the underside of the bonnet (link is in first post of this thread).

JH

has anyone had any success contacting this mob? ive tried to call, and sent a email. with no response to both.

Hi,

I may be able to get parts for you. What parts are you after?

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...