Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all just got a couple of quick questions as i'm slapping together a rb2630 out of parts i have laying around... 

the plan is to slap one of my 26 heads i have laying around onto a good condition standard rb30e bottomend i have aquired.. i have everything laying around for this except for the timing belt kit and my head bolt/stud issue.. 

my main question is about the head bolts/studs considering the 26 runs a larger size... 

Will there be any problems with me just using arp rb25 head studs? with out getting anything else even tho sleeves to sit in the 26 headbolt holes to comensate for the narrower head stud would be ideall... but this is a very very budget slap together out of parts i have laying around unless there is somewhere i can buy those sleeves providing they arent to costly... 

OR would i be better to take the complete short block into the machine shop and see if they'll drill and tap it with out pulling it apart (i dont think they'll like that idea :) )

Thanks in advance

Wazz

You can use rb25 studs as some guys here have, no modifications to the rb30 holes

Sure you dont want to freshen up the bottom end b4 u slap it together?

nah.. no need to freshen it up.. this is just a slap together out of boredem, motor was in good working order with good compression before it was pulled out... only reason it came out was for a 2530det to go in

spoke to the machine shop today and they've said just use 25 studs aswell as the head is doweled so there shouldnt be any problems with slop in the head

Just do what I did and order a set of Durapro Bolts. Cost me $50. Nissan quoted $180 for a set of standards..

The Durapro and Nissan bolts are the exact same torque settings. The engine builder said they may even be the same bolts.

Just do what I did and order a set of Durapro Bolts. Cost me $50. Nissan quoted $180 for a set of standards..

The Durapro and Nissan bolts are the exact same torque settings. The engine builder said they may even be the same bolts.

nah, goin studs. 

use new studs, i can tell you now reused ones fail. We tuned a 250000km $150 wrecker NA rb30e (still single cam) @ 22psi (300rwkw) and the brand new gasket failed due to poor clamp pressure (pushed into coolant channel) fitted new studs and it has run like a charm.

spoke to the machine shop today and they've said just use 25 studs aswell as the head is doweled so there shouldnt be any problems with slop in the head

good call.

bolts job is to clamp, dowel's job is to locate. should be fine

use new studs, i can tell you now reused ones fail. We tuned a 250000km $150 wrecker NA rb30e @ 22psi (300rwkw) and the brand new gasket failed due to poor clamp pressure (pushed into coolant channel) fitted new studs and it has run like a charm.

nice work trent :) thats goin to be about what i'm aiming for out of my 275000km running fine rb30e, 10cm t67-25g should be lots of fun on it :banana: 

good call.

bolts job is to clamp, dowel's job is to locate. should be fine

they put it almost identically to how you've worded it there, i have a feeling this budget slap together is goin to make for some good fun :) 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeh they are 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in the rears. I still didn't get my answer if i can fit a 18x9 up front. I want to get 4 of this and see if they will fit before committing as they didn't see an 18x8 as an option but there is a 18x9.5 also.   Enkei RS05-RR 18x9 35mm ET 5x114.3 75.0 Bore Matte Gunmetal Wheel
    • This. The R34 handbrake icon DOES come up when the brake fluid level is low. You might be sitting right on that threshhold. I have been down this diagnosis path and this was the solution (and it was pretty much as full as your picture is to begin with).
    • Unfortunately the cavaet to that is that while any scan tool should be able to read the code, the workshop will need a consult plug to OBD socket adapter. You don't have a location on your profile, where are you based?
    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
×
×
  • Create New...