Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all just got a couple of quick questions as i'm slapping together a rb2630 out of parts i have laying around... 

the plan is to slap one of my 26 heads i have laying around onto a good condition standard rb30e bottomend i have aquired.. i have everything laying around for this except for the timing belt kit and my head bolt/stud issue.. 

my main question is about the head bolts/studs considering the 26 runs a larger size... 

Will there be any problems with me just using arp rb25 head studs? with out getting anything else even tho sleeves to sit in the 26 headbolt holes to comensate for the narrower head stud would be ideall... but this is a very very budget slap together out of parts i have laying around unless there is somewhere i can buy those sleeves providing they arent to costly... 

OR would i be better to take the complete short block into the machine shop and see if they'll drill and tap it with out pulling it apart (i dont think they'll like that idea :) )

Thanks in advance

Wazz

You can use rb25 studs as some guys here have, no modifications to the rb30 holes

Sure you dont want to freshen up the bottom end b4 u slap it together?

nah.. no need to freshen it up.. this is just a slap together out of boredem, motor was in good working order with good compression before it was pulled out... only reason it came out was for a 2530det to go in

spoke to the machine shop today and they've said just use 25 studs aswell as the head is doweled so there shouldnt be any problems with slop in the head

Just do what I did and order a set of Durapro Bolts. Cost me $50. Nissan quoted $180 for a set of standards..

The Durapro and Nissan bolts are the exact same torque settings. The engine builder said they may even be the same bolts.

Just do what I did and order a set of Durapro Bolts. Cost me $50. Nissan quoted $180 for a set of standards..

The Durapro and Nissan bolts are the exact same torque settings. The engine builder said they may even be the same bolts.

nah, goin studs. 

use new studs, i can tell you now reused ones fail. We tuned a 250000km $150 wrecker NA rb30e (still single cam) @ 22psi (300rwkw) and the brand new gasket failed due to poor clamp pressure (pushed into coolant channel) fitted new studs and it has run like a charm.

spoke to the machine shop today and they've said just use 25 studs aswell as the head is doweled so there shouldnt be any problems with slop in the head

good call.

bolts job is to clamp, dowel's job is to locate. should be fine

use new studs, i can tell you now reused ones fail. We tuned a 250000km $150 wrecker NA rb30e @ 22psi (300rwkw) and the brand new gasket failed due to poor clamp pressure (pushed into coolant channel) fitted new studs and it has run like a charm.

nice work trent :) thats goin to be about what i'm aiming for out of my 275000km running fine rb30e, 10cm t67-25g should be lots of fun on it :banana: 

good call.

bolts job is to clamp, dowel's job is to locate. should be fine

they put it almost identically to how you've worded it there, i have a feeling this budget slap together is goin to make for some good fun :) 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...