Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought i would would share a few pics of my custom oil catch can. It is 2.5L.

My mate knocked it up for me fairly quickly so it has not been polished yet.

Excuse the engine (it needs a degrease) as it has been in the garage for about 12 months not really going anywhere.

Happy for comments.

post-13913-1265029436_thumb.jpg post-13913-1265029503_thumb.jpg post-13913-1265029550_thumb.jpg post-13913-1265029603_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306457-custom-oil-catch-can/
Share on other sites

just letting you guys know but having the breather on it make it illegal. nice job by the way

this is true but I never said it was legal!

This car is orientated to track duties and very rarely sees street use, usually only going from home to tuner and back so not a real drama for me.

Edited by racegtst

is there a line from the front of the turbo to the catch can or am i seeing it right (pic 3) your still going from the turbo to the top of the rocker cover. i may be wrong but all i can see is two lines from the rocker cover to the catch can. The line going to rocker cover from the turbo needs to be plumbed into the catch can as well to get a vacuum in the catch can to pull the gasses from the rocker covers.

yeah... i dont think its really doing much, in fact its doing nothing for your right rocker cover, and the vacuum from the turbo is probably sucking the fumes from the left cover through the catch can anyway. is there a reason you didnt block off the hose from your rocker cover to the turbs?

it looks the goods anyway (Y)

looks the good mate, got a few questions tho

is ur mate interested in making more of a different design, spex would be supplied

is it baffled

r u running a drain back to sump

is there any reason its on the passenger side, most cars run in on drivers side (something to do with the crank pressure helping it drain back)

cheers

dan

The way the OP has it set up would be a huge vaccum leak and also would be sucking oily fumes straight from the top of the head into the intake, rendering the catchcan useless.

You can run your catch can atmo. if you block the return in the intake pipe and also block the PCV from the plenum to head. Then you just run your two breathers to the catch can and vent to atmo.

If you want to plumb your catchcan inline, then T the two breathers into one and run it to one port on the can, run the other port to the intake. It's best to fill the can with steel wool as in this situation it's acting as an oil/air seperator (even better to have a baffle in there too so the fumes have to go through the steel wool before exiting).

The atmo. setup above, is acting as a "catch" can and is more for high hp track cars that might be prone to breathing, you also don't want oil fumes in your intake when you run a lot of boost and timing.

Edited by bubba

Just been to the mechanic to ask his opinion.

He said that it is working fine and is doing it's job as a catch can. He also said that if i block off the PVC pipe then i will have idle and running issues etc.

Rowdy - the reason is that the mechanic advised this was the way to set it up. It is there to catch oil if i have a big issue and to allow the engine to breath when at the track.

ahh 33 s2 - my mate will be happy to buiild to your specs. if you are interested you can PM me your details and i will pass onto him.

I am not a mechanic so have to trust what the workshop says as they do a fair bit of work for drift, track and road cars predominatley Jap imports.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...