Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've got some heat reflective foam left over from my CAI partition that I done.

These will fit a HKS air filter in a R33 GTS-t beautifully (see pic).

I'm really not sure if they will fit any other airfilter though, but if you like I can NOT cut the hole for the airfilter.

These have a side that is angled and a top. The filter will breath from around the headlight.

These are simular to the ones sold for $90 but mine has a top as well :D

Cost is $40 and buy will have to pay postage otherwise I'll make zero money out of it :P:)

The pic is of the metal one that I made, but the reflective foam is the same design.

Whatdoyareckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3066-hks-air-filter-cai-partitions/
Share on other sites

Thejackal,

Your PM box is full. I'll have it sent off by the weekend.

The biggest difference I noticed is when your sitting at the lights for a few minutes. Without the partition the car seemed to take off pretty sluggish and would take about 20 seconds to come back to normal. This must have been because of al the hot air it was breathing.

With the partition in, the sluggishness (is that a word?) is gone and there is max power straight away. Just what you need when a WRX pulls up next to you at a red light :P:D:)

J

Originally posted by MrSnrub

Oh yeah but i have a blitz mesh airfilter so it maybe a different size?  

Also is there a hole to run a pipe from the front bar up ?

Ben

Oi ben Let me know if it fits on yours, I have same filter as yours so I'll take one if it fits...

Man that's nice clean partition I ever seen

cheers

Joe

MrSnrub & PVA_Glue,

Guys I'm really not sure if the Blitz filter will fit in the partition. The HKS filters aren't very tall but are very fat (round) to increase flow.

Have a look at the pic I've attached to this reply and you can make up your own mind if the Blitz will fit or not. The pic is of the partition without the lid on. I'm just not sure cause I've never seen a Blitz filter before :P :confused:

Ben - If your worried about air flow you can do what I've done and cut a hole in the inner guard to let more air in. No crap comes through the hole. I'm sure it would be fine without the hole, but I just wanted to make sure.

BTW: the first pic is of the metal partition that I've made, and the ones that I'm getting rid of are foam backed with heat reflective foil, but are excatly the same design. Just so you know.

I can make the metal ones if you want, but they will cost around the $150 mark cause I have to buy the metal and it will take at least a few hours to make 1 :eek: :eek:

Looking at the foam I have left, I should have enough for 2 or maaaaaybeeee 3 more.

J

ok just got one installed 2day thankz skyline33 :D and interested in that cold box of yourz....is it hard 2 put on the pod filter? Also how much performance will I get out of this?

Leon.

Have you driven your car with the pod on yet? It makes a great sound hay :D

The partition is relativly easy to put on, if your handy with a spanner you'll have no problems. You'll need to take the pod off to put the partition on. And if your fussy you could take the cross over pipe off too. But the easiest way would to make a small cut at the botom of the foam partition so you can slip it around the pipe.

Then run a bead of silicon around the edge of the partition where the top sits on. This will seal it and keep it in place.

I'm not sure how much you've driven your car with the pod on, but you'll notice that if your stopped at the lights for a few minutes and then take off fast, the car will be sluggish for the first bit, this is cause it's breathing in hot air which slows the car down. Using this it will breath colder air from around the headlight.

All up it would take about 30 minutes to put in.

I can send you a few more pics if you want to check it out.

Jayson

Yepp, no problems.

Have a look here:

http://www.users.bigpond.com/jayson77/

It's funny cause I closed my Bigpond account a few months ago, but my old web site is still working !!!

BTW: Just remember that the pics are of the metal partition I made, but the foam one is the same design, just foam backed with heat reflective foil instead of metal.

J

reserver me for one ok plz? I've got my climate control, my steering wheel horn, my right door 2 be fixed and my alarm 2 be installed this week.......man what a day has it been already.,.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...