Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm looking at buying "APEXi Auto Timer" for my R33 Series II. I'll be also buying the wiring harness for it and I want to be sure I don't need to hack anything apart once I have this harness. Where does the wiring harness plug into?

Im not confident with cutting wires and so forth so I just want to be sure before I buy it. Also is there anything else I need to be aware of? Is the factory alarm OK with the engine going and doors locked?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30664-apexi-auto-timer-wiring-question/
Share on other sites

Ok, I've found a good price a price too for the harness however perfectrun.com.au list it as "plug needs to be modified" also apexi-usa.com don't have a R33 GTST harness. Most places only have a GTR harness.

Does anyone have one of these workin in their GTST? Any ideas what needs to be modified on the wiring?

Factory alarm??? In my experience no alarm likes turbo timers, most will not arm with the ignition on. Is the turbo timer the pen style one? if this is the case you ned to splice into the computers wiring harness for the air fuel ratio meter to work. the english instructions are too hard to read due to poor resolution so use the japaneese instructions to view the pin layout of the ECU. :D hope this helps...

I got a response from Perfectrun.com.au and it all seems good, just need to modify the wiring harness plug so its fits the iginition plug on the r33.

Hi,

Connector part of the optional wiring harness needs to be cut slightly so the factory connector can be slide into it easily.

Regards,

Taki

Perfect Run

sales@perfectrun.com.au

By pressing the left/right buttons you should be able to. Sounds like a loose contact wire or ground wire. Does the display ever loose power? Do the sensors all work OK? Do the A/F and 02 display values?

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentat...nstructions.pdf

and

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentat...s_autotimer.pdf

  rs73 said:
has anyone managed to wire it up to handbrake wire? where do you find wires for the handbrake?

hi Rianto, if you remove your ashtray and the 2 screws behind it, then pull out the panel around the gear shift, it makes it easier to get the cup holder out. then you will see a yellow wire on the hand brake assy, thats the one you need. :D

Thank's Danny...

In re: car alarms not happy with turbo timers, I got an alarm which unlocks the door on ignition off and locks the door on ignition on. What happens is when engine was turned off by the turbo timer, my door will unlock. So the car will be vulnerable for 30s until the alarm's auto arm feature kicks in. My plan is to disable this feature, so when engine is running with turbo timer, I can lock the car manually. When timer runs out and turn off engine, it will not unlock the doors. Car is still vulnerable for 30s but at least now the doors stay locked. 30s later the auto arm kicks in. I can even shorten the 30s auto arm period for extra security, like 15s but not very practical when you don't need turbo timer, as you'll need to rush collecting your things to get out before 15s runs out and auto arms your car.

  AutoTrust said:
hi Rianto, if you remove your ashtray and the 2 screws behind it, then pull out the panel around the gear shift, it makes it easier to get the cup holder out. then you will see a yellow wire on the hand brake assy, thats the one you need. :D
  rs73 said:
No it's none of those. It's Code Alarm :)

Oh well..... if it is a 2003 pro series Code alarm try this

1- keep door open

2- Turn key to IGNITION ON position

3- press and hold valet switch for 5 seconds (LED will glow constantly)

4- press buttons 1 & 2 of transmitter TWICE

5- LED will flash twice

6- once you have confirmed the LED has flashed twice

7- press button 2 of the transmitter to turn off ignition door lock feature

8- Siren will chirp twice to confirm feature is off

10 - turn off ignition and close door to exit learn routine

Hope this helps :D

  LastTemptation said:
paul, its all good mate, just sometimes doesnt keep it running when i remove the key...

should i re check all the connections

Did you hook the handbrake wire up? if the connection on this wire sees a bad earth then it will not allow the TT to operate. Some people just earth this wire

Auto trust, ill do that.. but the thing is, i havent installed the timer myself so where do u think that wire could be? is it straight of the TT pen thing or is there a lil black box where its all connected to.. ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • E10 is pretty tightly regulated in percentage. Too much and engines can't adapt. Every incentive is against them to have too little ethanol though. The more ethanol the higher the octane.
    • Yeah i have R34 with factory small box and now RB25DET NEO swapoed and iam planning to upgrade to big box.  So i would be good as long as i do not change diff? 
    • Based off what you’ve said here, I think I’ve figured out a good bit of what I’ve done wrong -  So on the line going from the PCV valve to carbon canister, there’s a T joint that is pretty much right next to that lower port - I hadn’t noticed that the hose in the diagram was curved to attach onto the carb, so I was putting that line for the lower port onto the PCV line / carbon canister line instead. I’m going to have a flick through the manual again tomorrow and should hopefully find a diagram that’ll show me where that T joint should be connected to. Timing also 100% needs to be sorted out as well, should be able to tackle that tomorrow as well. Definitely feel like I should be on the right track now though. 
    • The screw is for idle (pilot circuit) mixture adjustment. Else, I'm confused ~ the diagram shows 2 carby ports, and the intake manifold port, but you're suggesting the "2nd port on the back of the carb that isn’t mentioned in the diagrams" ...yet, both carby ports are shown...que?... ...in any event, that port should be connected, but if not (like it is now), it's unlikely to cause a backfire out the carby (it would introduce false air and give you a fast/lean idle) ...sounds more like timing issues/spark plug wire routing responsible for the backfiring.    
×
×
  • Create New...