Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just pulled out my fuel pump and found to be stock, so will be upgrading soon.

Also decided to check voltage supply to pump as i've noticed few complaints (mainly r32) of voltage drop under load.

Battery voltage varied between 13.3v - 13v

Fuel pump voltage sat around 12.9 - 13v at idle and cruising, but dropped as far as 12.6v when I planted my foot into it.

Anybody reckon this is cause any probs for pump? or should I just direct feed it to battery anyway.

Also looking at Nismo, Tomei or HKS fuel pump. Is there actaully any difference between them. All around the same price.

Cheers :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306832-r33-gtr-fuel-pump-voltage-drop/
Share on other sites

Hey guys just pulled out my fuel pump and found to be stock, so will be upgrading soon.

Also decided to check voltage supply to pump as i've noticed few complaints (mainly r32) of voltage drop under load.

Battery voltage varied between 13.3v - 13v

Fuel pump voltage sat around 12.9 - 13v at idle and cruising, but dropped as far as 12.6v when I planted my foot into it.

Anybody reckon this is cause any probs for pump? or should I just direct feed it to battery anyway.

Also looking at Nismo, Tomei or HKS fuel pump. Is there actaully any difference between them. All around the same price.

Cheers :happy:

Don't waste your money, get a Bosch 044 and mount it in tank with a relay so it gets full battery voltage. Look in DIY section.

Nothing a bit of insertion rubber and a couple of hose clamps can't fix!

Yeah true but I reckon fuel surge would be a fair bit worse with that sort of setup. I guess if you dont track it its not a problem.

Hi. I had a similar problem in my gtr whilst getting it tuned. There is a fuel pump speed controller in some models of the 33, to bypass it, run a ground/negative wire from the pump directly to the chassis/battery. remember, ONLY do the negative as this is what controls the pump speed. Its a 5 min excercise and if it is the fix you were after, then choice. If its not, then hey, 5 mins and 40cm of wire is bugger all right?

Cheers, Allan

yes it is the fuel pump voltage regulator. It keys off the ECU, and varies the pump voltage according to engine load.

Unfortunately it is not able to drive the pump at full load without caving in (which is seen by a big dump in voltage).

So instead of wasting money on a new pump, just wire it to negative and you'll hear it is louder at idle, and you're also recirculating a lot more fuel back into your tank too, which might lead to fuel heating issues if your tank is nearly empty and you are in heavy traffic on a hot day.

but it solves the problem.

my advice is get the nismo pump. they are direct bolt in and work very well and very reliably. I have not seen one problem or failure of one EVER. I have seen a number of bosch pump failures though and others that did not live up to their flow claims. as best I can tell the nismo/tomei/HKS pumps are all the same so chose which ever one you can get quicker or cheaper.

adding a direct feed from battery to the pump (with a relay) is a good idea too. regardless of which pump you get.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...