Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey does anyone know wat is wrong with my car .. its a r32 gts auto and gear box been goin fine then today when i turned car off then when i was tryin 2 take off in drive it just takes for ever to get up 1000-2000 revs then just gets stuck around there doesnt go then i was goin up a hill near home and it just lost all power and just starting to stop even tho all other times been drivin when i put foot down goes but this afternoon just wouldnt go at all does anyone kno wats wrong im thinkin automatic gear box is slipping or does anyone have any ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307025-car-loosing-power/
Share on other sites

nah still sounds fine when i put it in 1 it revs over 2000 and runs fine and when i put it back in drive it goes good again just no idea when i stop completey then take off again in drive it just like dies and accerlates so shit drove all day and was fine then got back in 2 go home then this happened so dunno didnt thrash it or anythin either so yeh dunno and theres nothin leaking

umm usually if a code has been loggeed the check engine light will come on... there are some threads on here on how to check fault codes urselfff if your not to handy with that sort of stuff (its preety straight forward) the hardest bit is reading the codes lol... u cud get nissan to scan it for you and any fault codes that are logged will be found and the u can find a guide as to what each code number means somewhere on here... for example code 21 is ignition circuit i think (just as an example)

have a search around these threads but as i said usually if thers a fault code... the check engine light will come on man

going to try check fault codes tomorrow morning but for easy reading what is happening is

Engine light is on

when stoped in D (Drive) when accelerate starts going reallly slow from 1000-2000 revs

When i put it in 1st accelerated as it normaly did and works fine

After accelerating in 1st i change it back to Drive and it works fine above 2000 revs and accelerates normal again.

On a hill stoped in drive when i go 2 take off it just revs and i don't move at all just sits there inless i put it in 1st i take off normal.

After cruising in drive when going up a hill at 60 it starts loosing power and drops to like 20 kms even tho i was accelerating just revs and just keeps going slower..

yeah man definatley something wrong.. as long as that engine light come on then you shouldnt have much problem with finding out what it exactly is if you can read the fault codes properly...

let us know when u get the fault codes mate :blink:

hey man took it for a drive 2 day engine light not on and it done it once then car has been fine for rest of the day so :S but leakin a bit of clear water /maybe rain water was raining other day off the firewall but seems 2 be going fine again

yeah it wont hurt thanks for help tho drove it a bit tonight and worked perfect again some water driped out off it when i was parked on a hill so maybe some water got into some electrics or something no idea but its working fine again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...