Jump to content
SAU Community

Compliancing Question.

CeJay
 Share

Recommended Posts

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

Have a bit of a question re compliance, is it illegal for the company doing the compliance to comply a car which has had an integral part of the car removed? say the abs module? Is it also illegal for said company to then pass the car as roadworthy? This would of been done a few years ago, under sevs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307406-compliancing-question/
Share on other sites
Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted

The short answer is if it's not roadworthy and is passed as roadworthy, then yes that would be considered illegal, but also bear in mind that once the car has been driven away from the workshop, they can claim that you or someone else pulled it out. If the ABS light isn't on, there's a chance they may have simply overlooked it - I've seen a couple of cars come out of Japan with the ABS disconnected.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah pretty tough to go back a 'few years ago' and prove what was/was not on the car. I'm not sure having ABS removed makes a car un-roadworthy. particularly if it was say an R32 skyline which has variants that come with ABS and other variants that have no ABS. It's a bit of a foggy question. In short, I'd say yes it's illegal. But if you have plans of suing them, or getting some kind of compensation from them then I'd say the chances are slim. They will almost certainly argue that the car was complied with ABS installed and fully functioning and that someone else has removed it in the intervening years.

Silver_GT Collaborator

Silver_GT

Posted
Posted

if you only just found out about it what makes you think the compliancer or importer knew about it? especially if its just the abs module, none of the big engine bay gear. Dont go pointing fingers just yet, roadworthy doesnt check for abs working, just a simple brake test, and theres no way that any agent in japan should be expected to make sure the abs in every car they purchase functions correctly, in fact that would be near impossible.

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had known it had been removed, I just didn't know it could possibly cause me issues.

And Yeah well considering the plugs for the abs were tucked into the guard, and there was heat wrap around the lines I think not. Pretty bloody obvious.

That including the fact the roadworthy passed the car with bald front tires, and the fact I needed to get all 4 rotors replaced two days later as the pads were worn down to the metal/bonding material (like they did that in a 300km roadtrip home.....) makes me think they took their time doing the roadworthy.....

Amongst other things, I later found out the car had 60000kms taken off of it from when it was for sale in japan. Now who exactly wound it back I don't know, but I wasn't really suprised when I found out either.

I highly doubt anything will come of this, just utterly pissed off with the dealer I bought the car off.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

as far as the insurance implications go I would ring and anonymously ask your insurance company how they see it. maybe it can be noted on the policy that the car doesn't have ABS or some such. not having ABS wont necessarily instantly make it un-roadworthy. it does sound like the company that sold it to you may have glossed over a few things though :) bit of a shame.

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted

Doubtful the person on the phone would know how the law would treat this.

Now that you know about it, some policies state that if it is a known defect that contributes to the loss, you could be for some of that loss. Which company are you with?

  • 2 weeks later...
CARSICK Rising Star

CARSICK

Posted
Posted
I had known it had been removed, I just didn't know it could possibly cause me issues.

And Yeah well considering the plugs for the abs were tucked into the guard, and there was heat wrap around the lines I think not. Pretty bloody obvious.

That including the fact the roadworthy passed the car with bald front tires, and the fact I needed to get all 4 rotors replaced two days later as the pads were worn down to the metal/bonding material (like they did that in a 300km roadtrip home.....) makes me think they took their time doing the roadworthy.....

Amongst other things, I later found out the car had 60000kms taken off of it from when it was for sale in japan. Now who exactly wound it back I don't know, but I wasn't really suprised when I found out either.

I highly doubt anything will come of this, just utterly pissed off with the dealer I bought the car off.

Sounds like shenannigans going on between the dealership & the roadworthy.

Sounds like you're not the 1st

Sounds like they'll do it to others

Sounds like...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...