Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=14489

Hmmmm, so tempted! I'm sure it's caught someone else's eye, anyone been to look at it?

http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=14489

Please tell me it's horribly built and I don't want to grab it up, install a sequential Hollinger with GTR transfer and a high compression 7.0l alloy Chev with low pressure turbos....... oh my.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308580-i-feel-naughty/
Share on other sites

Are those Skyline wheels on it? Wonder what running gear it has in it (dunnydoors are different stud pattern to Skylines, arent they?)

Hmmm - even a cammed LS3 would be nice. 600 reliable HP with a fat torque curve (and no stupid turbo restrictors)

I wonder if I could squeeze 15's over those brakes and fit some rally tyres. Now THAT would be a fun "allcomers" car to breathe some life back into the forest :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308580-i-feel-naughty/#findComment-5092248
Share on other sites

They're 32R wheels, and GTR Brembos by the looks too. Looks suspiciously like GTR rear driveshafts too. What's that rear diff though... looks familiar? I reckon R200 front and rear would be the go.

I think it's fairly useless at fitting into any class in 4WD configuration, but as a "special" is would be wicked! Run what ya brung!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308580-i-feel-naughty/#findComment-5092283
Share on other sites

I think it's fairly useless at fitting into any class in 4WD configuration, but as a "special" is would be wicked! Run what ya brung!

Absolutely!! It's wrong on so many levels it's just right.

R spec rubber for the midweek track attack sprints, then rally tyres for the weekend rallysprints. Ooh yeah <insert Duff Man Gyration>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308580-i-feel-naughty/#findComment-5092312
Share on other sites

They're 32R wheels, and GTR Brembos by the looks too. Looks suspiciously like GTR rear driveshafts too. What's that rear diff though... looks familiar? I reckon R200 front and rear would be the go.

I think it's fairly useless at fitting into any class in 4WD configuration, but as a "special" is would be wicked! Run what ya brung!

They do look like 32 half shafts, doesn't look like a R200 diff though. Maybe a R230?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308580-i-feel-naughty/#findComment-5092517
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...