Jump to content
SAU Community

900amp Battery Dying On Startup

Jap_Muscle

By Jap_Muscle,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jap_Muscle Mentor

Jap_Muscle

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

Got a bit of a tricky one here.

Everytime i try to start the car the battery loses power. i attached a meter onto the terminals of the battery and basically its at 80% charge. after trying to start the car. it drops to 50%. if i give it another go the battery is completely dead and the car dosnt move.

the strange thing is.....the lights audio all seem to work fine though.

wats going on you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308868-900amp-battery-dying-on-startup/
Share on other sites
Jap_Muscle Mentor

Jap_Muscle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Its a optima yellow top D34 BRAND NEW....been sittn in the garage for 1week. been in the car for 2.

Specs: http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Content/.../D34_082104.pdf

I know the battery isnt dead. fully charged it overnight with a CTEK charger. metered the draw when the car was off and it was sitting at 11volts and it still dosnt start. so i jump start it with another car. i end up driving the car for about 2 hours. as soon as i turn it off and try to start it again. nothing happens again.

im thinking it may have something to do with the alternator not charging the battery? but i was hoping someone could clarify how a car starts exactly? does it purely relies on the battery to start or is it a combo of the alternator and battery.

Edited by Jap_Muscle
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
im thinking it may have something to do with the alternator not charging the battery? but i was hoping someone could clarify how a car starts exactly? does it purely relies on the battery to start or is it a combo of the alternator and battery.
The battery starts the car. Then the alternator re-charges the battery. The battery should have 12V (+ a tad) available before you attempt to start the engine.

It is possible your alternator is shagged. Get the engine running, then measure voltage at the battery - it should be around 14V. If it isn't, the alternator is shagged.

If the alternator is still ok, increase engine revs to around 2000, and measure volts at the battery - should still be around 14V. If it is more, the regulator in the alternator is shagged.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...