Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

Was at a party last night and when i left, my mate told me to smoke it up a bit....so i did.

Revved till about 3-4 then dropped the clutch. Went up and hit the limiter and moved forward about 30 metres.

Didnt feel right so i reversed back and asked my mate if my wheels spun at all, and they didnt.

Got a rank smell in the car which was there for about 15 minutes. Wasnt tires or brakes, hadnt come across this smell before.

when i got home, i lifted the bonnet but there was no smell from there. Went around to the tires and the back passenger side stunk of this smell.

Im not sure if its my clutch, as it was fully disengaged when i "tried" to smoke it up.

Any ideas what it is or what it could be?? Not sure if i should be worried. :down:

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/
Share on other sites

Yep sounds like clutch. Dont be surprised if it starts to slip when you hit boost.

Im not sure if its my clutch, as it was fully disengaged when i "tried" to smoke it up.

Not sure what you mean but that, you engage the clutch to drive the rear wheels. Your problem will be that its slipping when engaged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097467
Share on other sites

yeah stock clutch is pretty good for normal driving

as soon as you wind it up or get on the burnouts in 2nd gear / clutch dumps = dont even bother

go for a single plate heavy duty

should be sub $1200 fitted and supplied

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097498
Share on other sites

lol. Your clutch is rooted.

Do you have a Vent to atmosphere BOV? That could also be the problem. Put the factory plumback on, and it will help. Puts less load on the clutch.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097510
Share on other sites

Dump it harder...

More rev's and side step it, if your fairly violent with it, it'll break the initial traction and not really have time to slip.

Unless your running semis or something special :down:

Also, don't sit on the brake and dump it. Drop it, get it spinning and then apply as little brake as possible for desired effect.

Edited by Finchy33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097633
Share on other sites

Lol, i did something like this too. Was trying to see some stats from a mates iPhone Dyno program. Revved it to 4-5k RPM, let the clutch out, wheels spun a bit, caught and then no power with the yummy burning clutch smell. Around 260rwkw, with stock clutch - i think its stock anyway, shall find out next week.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097659
Share on other sites

lol. Your clutch is rooted.

Do you have a Vent to atmosphere BOV? That could also be the problem. Put the factory plumback on, and it will help. Puts less load on the clutch.

Yeah the stock blow off valve is on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308981-burning-smell/#findComment-5097710
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
    • planning a r34 rb25 de+t with some other work, rather just have it done in a shop due to space limitations any recommendations? I have most the parts already I seen online Moore Performance and DR Drift any advice appreciated thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...