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Omg Month Long Fuel Pump

Damo Monster

By Damo Monster,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BASHO Mentor

BASHO

Posted
Posted (edited)
These pumps need 13.5V to operate properly.

Did he wire in a new voltage feed and relay for the new pump?

The std wiring has a resistor circuit that is switched in at idle...starving the pump of voltage and starving your engine of fuel.

lol at the AFM people...he says it runs fine whether cruising or boosting so why say its the afm when it appears to be metering the air nicely.

Why ? I had a WRX thar ran faster than a mad centipede and had an idle like a roller coaster --new AFM --problem fixed.

Surely dying at idle has a limited No of causes, just go through them one by one till it's fixed (if theres no fault code)

Lets start with ;

-------------------Fuel pump.

-------------------Fuel regulator.

-------------------Fuel filter.

-------------------Dirty injectors.

:others may care to copy and paste and add other things.

OR(My choice) --- Take it to a workshop that knows WTF they're doing get a fauly code read and they'll nail the frikin thing in 5 minutes flat , pay them for the diagnostic and then fix it yourself or if it's to tricky get them to do it.

I personaly would not be friken round with the fuel system if it wasn't an easy fix, -wrong call there and bang bang engine time.

I can't understand why you're putting up with a friken spanner cowboy who seems to be learning at your expense just an IMO.

Edited by BASHO
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

+1. Do what you can yourself, like swapping airflow meter, replacing fuel filter, bottle of injector cleaner, then go through the harder ones with a specialist.

Only problem with that is, the experts are usually booked months in advance.

Damo Monster Enthusiast

Damo Monster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi there guys..

firstly, thank you so much for all of your contributions.. its really nice having a place to come and get some good advise when everybody around has run out of ideas... since the poor mechanic was starting to look a bit lost, i read some more faqs on here, listened to the advise, and spent the afternoon in his workshop.. i was going to do the whole earth wire mod, but after meatering the resistance between the pump and the body, i just didnt feel confident to screw around with it.. instead is dismantled and cleaned the afm and the aac valve..his scanner showed no faults until i cleaned the afm, at which point it said it was missing or faulty.. after checking the connections again, i gave the car a run, reset his scanner and then checked it again.. scanner showed up no faults so i've been driving it ever since... so far, fingers crossed and wood-a-knockin, the car seems to be running sweet and has no more stalling..

So again, thanks guys, and if any more probs arise, i'll re-post, but in the mean time hopefully we can call this one closed...

Cheers,

Damo

3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
Posted

you should still do the fuel pump wiring mod u dont wanna starve the engine for fuel when your giving it stick. instead of just grounding the earth wire you should put a relay in and give the pump direct battery voltage.

note - just remembered r32s dont have the battery in the boot like r33s do they? this is a piece of piss mod in 33s for your car u might have to run a wire from ur engine bay.

Damo Monster Enthusiast

Damo Monster

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you should still do the fuel pump wiring mod u dont wanna starve the engine for fuel when your giving it stick. instead of just grounding the earth wire you should put a relay in and give the pump direct battery voltage.

note - just remembered r32s dont have the battery in the boot like r33s do they? this is a piece of piss mod in 33s for your car u might have to run a wire from ur engine bay.

not sure if im too keen to put the pump on a relay like that, sould be a bit scared if the relay failed.. anyway, the bloody thing started stalling again today so i dont know.. i tore the afm out and pulled it apart.. i've resoldered the joints in it.. they looked a bit old, but will try the car again tomorrow to test it.. haveb been hunting around for another afm.. the closet i can find is one of a subaru.. the unit looks identical except the green sticker on it has the very last part of the code being different.. mine is a j60, and the subaru one is an r60.. too scared to try it though incase i blow something up :D

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Good to see you had a crack at fixing it yourself, If the afm is playing up, that will probably fix it.

You probably found if you wiggle the plug it came good? That is the sign of a dry solder joint. Easy fix if you have a soldering iron, and saves buying a new afm.

Damo Monster Enthusiast

Damo Monster

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Good to see you had a crack at fixing it yourself, If the afm is playing up, that will probably fix it.

You probably found if you wiggle the plug it came good? That is the sign of a dry solder joint. Easy fix if you have a soldering iron, and saves buying a new afm.

cheers mate.. starting to run out of ideas if it doesnt fix it though, bad ecu anyone? yikes.. it might just be my paranoira, but im starting to think it only plays up on bloody hot days if that give anyone a clue..

BASHO Mentor

BASHO

Posted
Posted
not sure if im too keen to put the pump on a relay like that, sould be a bit scared if the relay failed.. anyway, the bloody thing started stalling again today so i dont know.. i tore the afm out and pulled it apart.. i've resoldered the joints in it.. they looked a bit old, but will try the car again tomorrow to test it.. haveb been hunting around for another afm.. the closet i can find is one of a subaru.. the unit looks identical except the green sticker on it has the very last part of the code being different.. mine is a j60, and the subaru one is an r60.. too scared to try it though incase i blow something up :cool:

Sometimes cleaning the AFM is only a temporary solution I know this from when I had WRX, if the car ran OK after you cleaned the AFM then went crook again could still be the AFM do you know anyone you can borrow a good one from to check it out.

:cheers:

Damo Monster Enthusiast

Damo Monster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Never owned a WRX then or you would have heard plenty :cheers:

.. well i dont have any hope of finding another skyline afm round these parts so yesterday i opened the afm and resoldered all the joints.. so far, the car seems really good so i can only hope that its sorted it.. if anything, the car seems different is a good way so far..

.. oh, and my skyline has a k&n filter in it so oil contamination was a possibility.. think the contact cleaner and resolder should be close enough to call it reconditioned :cool:....

Edited by Damo Monster
payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted
lol at the AFM people...he says it runs fine whether cruising or boosting so why say its the afm when it appears to be metering the air nicely.

Laugh all you want. I still say AFM. Its intermittent.

BASHO Mentor

BASHO

Posted
Posted
.. well i dont have any hope of finding another skyline afm round these parts so yesterday i opened the afm and resoldered all the joints.. so far, the car seems really good so i can only hope that its sorted it.. if anything, the car seems different is a good way so far..

.. oh, and my skyline has a k&n filter in it so oil contamination was a possibility.. think the contact cleaner and resolder should be close enough to call it reconditioned :D ....

:blush: Congrats good to hear --IMO- flick the K&N filter if it's overoiled it'll do it again , farkit flick it anyway go Apexi dry or stock--just IMO though.

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