Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Bought this Brembo F40 calipers for my s15 as I'm thinking to track it this year but it will be an overkill and going to run 17" so will be purchasing GTR brembos instead. Those who are serious with their brakes will know what these calipers are capable of, can run anything from 324mm rotors(GTR size) all the way up to 355mm rotors.

Brembo-F40-2.JPG

Actual pic of the calipers

dsc01123g.jpg

dsc01127t.jpg

Pins and clips

dsc01122l.jpg

Goodridge brake lines

dsc01125kp.jpg

dsc01124s.jpg

As you can see, these calipers are in very good condition, even the seals at the piston look schmick. All pins and clips included. It will also come with used pads with PLENTY of meat but I did not take a picture of it

Asking $1500 FIRM

Located in WA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309760-brembo-f40-calipers/
Share on other sites

The previous owner advertised them as F40s so assumed they are, it was off a brembo GT kit from his E36

But checking the part number on the caliper, it doesnt look like it

Part numbers on the caliper are:

20.7679.00

20.7678.00

Dont have much luck finding F50 brembo caliper number but found some info on this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...o-calipers.html

Anyone knows F50 brembo caliper part number?

Taking offers. need this gone to purchase GTR brembos

The actual serial on the calipers are below:

20.7679.00

20.7678.00

They are off a brembo GT kit hence the serial does not match what i posted above but they are essentially the same caliper - even uses the same pad as the F40 brembos

The easiest way to work out what caliper they are is to grab some verniers and measure the piston diameters. That will tell you what they are. The part numebrs vary on a few different things. (The F40 and F50 is a generic description for them as there is any number of different piston size combinations) If these were off a BMW kit they could have slightly different pistons sizes to typical Nissan kits. (not that it matters a whole lot)

ut looking at the piston orientation i am guessing they come off a Mazda, BMW or Supra etc as they are a trailing caliper where as the Nissan requriess a leading caliper setup. Its not difficult to swap over the bleed nipples and bridge though to correct that

But yes they all take the same pads...and if you get desperate to sell them then PM me your price as i have a few sets of rotors and things laying around that i could use these to make a kit

  • 1 year later...

Bump!

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5736637

Still have these - now selling with dogbones

Asking: $1600 ONO Lowballers will be ignored

Bridge and bleed nipple has been swapped around so it's a leading caliper setup now :)

Edited by ichi-go
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...