Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well hopefully i can escape the tax - the box is getting turned inside out and getting labeld "gift" :(

i'll take the risk

I would delete this post if I was you.

Other people read these forums that may be interested in that....

Cheers

Ken

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

deleted- now u delte urs since u quoted  me :P

and ken that price i said inlcluded shipping - it was just minus tax etc

cheers

BRAD

The plenum is sitting at WA customs as we speak while they sort out value of/tax/GST so don't think you are not going to get stopped.

As I said anything from Japan performance related is being scrutinised.

Cheers

Ken

LOL!! - ok i've decided to not go with the purchase of the plenum as $1500 could be put to better use else where. Now all i'm searching for is 300-350 wrhp out of a RB25DET which is fitted into a S13 silvia - (to much hp will be crazy) - mods already fitted will be a Wolf 3D, 3" stainless zaust, pod (typical - lol), FMIC, and Bosch 044 pump ;)

what would the next best mod using about $1500 to get me to my goal of 300 - 350 wrhp?

cheers

BRAD

the combo youve described above should get you close to 300 in a skyline. assuming the drivetrain losses are the same you should be nearly there.

you'll be struggling to get more than that out of the standard turbo though.

s/hand t3/4??

either way, I would like a ride in a 350 rwhp silvia.

the notion that nissan spent years pondering the best way to extract small HP improvements and maximum flow from their plenums is just ridiculous. The factory plenum is designed to be as cheap as possible to manufacture, whilst still performing the job adequately for purpose - i.e. low boost road use applications.

Why is a forward facing plenum included on everything *except* the gts-t then? Even Nissans 'budget' CA18DET and SR20DET motors include one. So its basically not cost. I'd say its just efficiency and suit for purpose as stock, and as people are saying - you're not probably going to notice the gains on a fairly stock setup. Start shoving more boost in, flowing more air into the inlets, and then it might become an issue if the chambers are restrictive.

From what i've seen/read it really becomes a gainer *after* you've stepped up to bigger turbo land. But every little bit helps along the way.

when i was at speedworks i saw a lancer that had just had the intake manifold changed. from something standard to a jun one. runing only 1.2 bar boost it make 80 ps more than when it was running 1.7 bar. even aj at speedworks couldn't beleive the results. i think it simply proves how much extra power can be tuned from a car with high quality parts.

having a better plenium will make a difference, less restriction at higher flow lets the cylinder pressures go higher at lower boost. how ever if you dont have a bigger turbo, fmic and management i wouldnt c you could actually utilize this item. if you do have these items

im yet to look at the internals of the greddy plenum, i would like to do this before i decide weather its worth making my own from scratch or purchasing one of these. if i can design and build this from scratch with no real problems i might consider making more. how ever i need to put more reserch into this before i start. anyone whom could help with any info i might need i would love to hear from you.

Matty B

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...