Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roughly. I think Eric (person who worked on Gibson R32 GTR racecars and now builds Targa, road spec GTR's, etc) worked it out to be 35% loss when engine dyno was compared to roller dyno (was mentioned in a magazine, so don't know how accurate the info is) for R32GTR, R33GTR. Not sure what torque split was used, as I've noticed torque split affects the final kw output at wheels. More rearward bias = higher kw at wheels.

210kw x 1.35 = 283.5kw x 1.341 = 380hp at engine.

Edited by SKYPER
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309903-atf-vs-atw/#findComment-5107909
Share on other sites

Roughly. I think Eric (person who worked on Gibson R32 GTR racecars and now builds Targa, road spec GTR's, etc) worked it out to be 35% loss when engine dyno was compared to roller dyno (was mentioned in a magazine, so don't know how accurate the info is) for R32GTR, R33GTR. Not sure what torque split was used, as I've noticed torque split affects the final kw output at wheels. More rearward bias = higher kw at wheels.

210kw x 1.35 = 283.5kw x 1.341 = 380hp at engine.

35 % loss is a fair chunk of power thats suprising , i think every car should be rated at the wheels , great info cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309903-atf-vs-atw/#findComment-5108112
Share on other sites

35% loss hummmmmmm

Looky here

EPSON001.jpg

Thats 299bhp ATF

convert that to kw its 220kw just give or take

as a rule of thumb ive always calculated transmission lose at 15% as its not a continual torque engine

At the wheels mine would be around 255bhp or 188kw

Ok same car same rollers same guy stock manifold pressure no mods

Untitled-11.jpg

255bhp 188kw ATF this time not wheels remember

Thats 217bhp ATW roughly 160kw ATW

Edited by jjskyline79
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309903-atf-vs-atw/#findComment-5108451
Share on other sites

The only way to do it is to dyno a large cross section of vehicles both at the wheels and on the engine brake. Then generate a generic table with error bounds attached.

If you take into acount, gearboxes, diff set ups, tyres, heat at the tyres, tyre pressure, power range, revs to achieve it, your doing better than me.

A car that revs to 12000rpm will create more friction, a 1000hp car will create more friction, your tyres with 50psi in them generally gives more power [one for the dyno queens to remember], different brands/types of tyres will dyno optimally at different times and heat ranges, a lock diff will absorb more energy early but may actually be better at higher revs because you are using both rear tyres equally and so it all goes around and around.

The only true way is to do both dyno runs with the same motor, even then you may not have the best tyre on for the job.

So any any equation or ROT applied is an approximation - end of story. But a ROT is OK to use as long as you accept the bounds it creates with a high and low pass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309903-atf-vs-atw/#findComment-5108559
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...