Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Guys,

My mate here at work came to me with a set of figures produced by his friend's newest toy for drag racing.

This toy is apparently a computer you plug on to your cigarrette lighter on the car and somehow (I am sure there is at least one more cable he isn't telling me about) this computer measures how long it takes for the car to reach each interval of 10 Km/h.

Then he said to me, that the car to win the drag race is not necessarily the fastest car at every point of the race, so he wanted to know what was the distance covered by the car at different time intervals rather than speed intervals.

And so, thanks to some vague memories of high school physics and the geniuses on the internet who seem to have an Excel formula for everything you want to do I produced the spreadsheet I attached.

All you need to change is the values on the coloured cells (i.e. time taken to reach each increment of 10 Km/h, what time intervals you want to find [1 second, ½ seconds, etc]); everything else is automatically calculated. I have protected the spreadsheet so you don't accidentally muck up the formulae, but you can unprotect it without the need for a password.

You can get a lot more detailed information from computers already available in the market which you can take from your car and plug into USB on your PC...shweeeeet! But if like these guys all you have is speed increments and times, then you can use this free spreadsheet that I put together with the assistance of the most awesome Excel geeks in the planet.

By the way, the figures on the spreadsheet belong to a Subaru WRX STI VIII 1997 (stock standard).

Have fun, and keep racing.

Velocity.xls

Edited by Kichy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310322-drag-racing-times/
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

Here are the results for my mate's car.

1995 Toyota Soarer - 2.5L V6 Twin Turbo

1 second 5.56 m

2 seconds 21.25 m

3 seconds 42.50 m

4 seconds 66.81 m

5 seconds 94.17 m

6 seconds 125.42 m

7 seconds 160.14 m

8 seconds 196.53 m

9 seconds 236.25 m

10 seconds 278.19 m

11 seconds 322.36 m

12 seconds 368.75 m

13 seconds 417.36 m

Awesome! :)

Hello everyone,

Here are the results for my mate's car.

1995 Toyota Soarer - 2.5L V6 Twin Turbo

1 second 5.56 m

2 seconds 21.25 m

3 seconds 42.50 m

4 seconds 66.81 m

5 seconds 94.17 m

6 seconds 125.42 m

7 seconds 160.14 m

8 seconds 196.53 m

9 seconds 236.25 m

10 seconds 278.19 m

11 seconds 322.36 m

12 seconds 368.75 m

13 seconds 417.36 m

Awesome! :laugh:

Where's the 402m time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...