Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone i need some help to fix my problem

CAR: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-4 AWD With modifications.

PROBLEM:

The problem is my steering, in the morning when i first start the car and drive it the steering get stuck to the left, not stuck in the way where i cant move it, the steering wheel is just on an angel to the left not dead straight and i have to go left to right on to get it dead straight.

It also happens when I'm going 80kph + around a bend or so it pulls left and then back and then left again and it is dangerous and it unpleasant to drive.

also when going over numerous bumps on the road (only small ones tho) the car will go slightly left to right really fast and i can feel the back ones moving also.

MODIFICATIONS:

I HAVE 17" Wheels (One is different)

Have New Tiers (Fronts are the same Rears are differnt to each other)

Aftermarket KYB Excel- G Gas Struts

King Springs in front

Cut Springs in rear

MY SOLUTION ON WHAT I THINK IT IS:

After i changed my tiers i went to Bob-Jane T-mart for a wheel alignment and wheel balance and maybe they didn't do a proper job not sure.

or

maybe because the springs in the rear are cut and its lower in the rear and its throwing everything off.

MY POWER STEERING PUMP HAS A LOT OF AIR BUBBLES IN IT IF THAT HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT

ALSO i do not remember if the car was doing it before because it was off the road then i first bought it because i was changing a few parts like clutch ect before i put it back on the road

I'm not really sure of the problem so please help me out as much as you can.

thank you

Edited by niiko101
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310412-r33-gts-4-steering-help-asap/
Share on other sites

I have had this problem before and this is how i corrected it. Im not saying it will solve your problem but it is worth a shot as it works for me every time.

Hop in your car and drive it up your drive way steering it straight so the car goes straight and then stop and park the car. Dont reverse or turn the steering wheel. Ignore the steering wheel being not center, we will get to that later. Once you have done this, turn the car off and pop the bonnet. Pull the battery lead off and leave it off for about 5 min to discharge the car. Another cheats way of not waiting to discharge the car is disconnect battery and then press your foot on the brake. This will also discharge the car straight away without waiting.

In the meantime of discharging the cars power with the battery lead off, turn your steering wheel to right so it is straight. Ignore that the wheels may have slightly turned. Once you have done this and the steering wheel is straight, put the battery lead back on and start the car. DO NOT move the steering wheel. Let the hicas computer relearn its positioning of the steering wheel as it will notice the steering wheel sits as being center. After about 5 min turn the car off. Give it a min and then start it taking it for a drive to see if it corrected itself.

What happens is if you do a battery change or you disconnect the battery for a while and you have your steering wheel not straight when you put the battery leads on, it will think that this is the new center point of the steering wheel. Ive done it a few times were ive disconnected the battery, turned the steering wheel, reconnected the battery and then found the steering wheel to not be straight with the wheels. Doing this process above always fixes my problem.

I hope it fixes your issue. :D

I have had this problem before and this is how i corrected it. Im not saying it will solve your problem but it is worth a shot as it works for me every time.

Hop in your car and drive it up your drive way steering it straight so the car goes straight and then stop and park the car. Dont reverse or turn the steering wheel. Ignore the steering wheel being not center, we will get to that later. Once you have done this, turn the car off and pop the bonnet. Pull the battery lead off and leave it off for about 5 min to discharge the car. Another cheats way of not waiting to discharge the car is disconnect battery and then press your foot on the brake. This will also discharge the car straight away without waiting.

In the meantime of discharging the cars power with the battery lead off, turn your steering wheel to right so it is straight. Ignore that the wheels may have slightly turned. Once you have done this and the steering wheel is straight, put the battery lead back on and start the car. DO NOT move the steering wheel. Let the hicas computer relearn its positioning of the steering wheel as it will notice the steering wheel sits as being center. After about 5 min turn the car off. Give it a min and then start it taking it for a drive to see if it corrected itself.

What happens is if you do a battery change or you disconnect the battery for a while and you have your steering wheel not straight when you put the battery leads on, it will think that this is the new center point of the steering wheel. Ive done it a few times were ive disconnected the battery, turned the steering wheel, reconnected the battery and then found the steering wheel to not be straight with the wheels. Doing this process above always fixes my problem.

I hope it fixes your issue. :D

thanks for the tip man and ill give it a go right now and let you know if it worked altho i dont have a hicas i have a altessa 4wd system but its worth a shot doesnt hurt to try

Edited by niiko101

the method you have discribed won't fix any problems with the front wheels not lining up with the steering wheel. it may fix any issues with the rear wheels, but not the front as it is a mechanical link between the front wheels and the steering wheel. the steering column actually turns the steering rack and the front wheels cannot move without the steering wheel moving, and vice versa.

also if your power steering lines have air in them or the pump is shot you will get vibrations through the steering wheel and it will feel jerky when you turn the wheel. i have driven a 180sx with a dying power steering pump and it had similar symptoms to what you are describing.

The last time I got a Bob Jane place to do a wheel alignment, the steering wheel was off centre. Go and get a new alignment, centring the wheels to the steering wheel (ie steering wheel "straight ahead").

Get rid of the odd wheel and tyre on the rear. The odd (mis-matched) rear tyres make the car unroadworthy (unless you are running the space-saver spare). And check the fluid level in the P/S pump.

The last time I got a Bob Jane place to do a wheel alignment, the steering wheel was off centre. Go and get a new alignment, centring the wheels to the steering wheel (ie steering wheel "straight ahead").

Get rid of the odd wheel and tyre on the rear. The odd (mis-matched) rear tyres make the car unroadworthy (unless you are running the space-saver spare). And check the fluid level in the P/S pump.

is the power steering pump ment to have air bubbles in it tho ?

Edited by niiko101

not that i am aware of. but what do you mean by bubbles? do you mean tiny little bubbles in the oil, or bigger bubbles? sometimes fresh oil will have tiny bubbles in it, but generally not. it is a hydraulic system and it works by pressurising the oil, as oil doesn't compress very well, but air does, so any air in the system will make it not function properly.

also is there any noise coming from the pump when you turn the wheel or even just at idle?

could be that your power steering pump is stuffed, or possibly even the steering rack is stuffed

If you have odd wheels / tyres on the car, sort them out so that the wheel / tyre combo on each axle, at least, is the same. Then you might be in a position to diagnose what the problem really is.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...