Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

As the topic suggests which springs are softer (ie nicer for the street) on a 33 or 34 skyline:

Whiteline rear springs part number 73176

King Springs rear part number KDRL-61SP

If anyone has the spring rates that would be fantastic.

I want the softest good suspension for a 350mm wheel to arch height on the rear of my R34 GT-T.

Ok I rang up king springs, the said the springs are progressive rate from 135-180 lb/inch. That sounds excellent, right on Sydney Kids recommendation!

I rang up whiteline (they said hello red ranger) and they said they dont sell springs anymore. wtf

King springs are terrible ( well in my experience ) they ride like shit super hard/ stiff, no variable rate either.

Lovells springs are great, and i dont mind Universal.

Hmmm thats interesting, what king springs have you tried? These have the softest spring rate of all the springs on offer. They are progressive rate too 135-180 lb/inch. Whereas the whiteline springs are 165lb/inch but they are constant.

Also what shocks were you using with the king springs as that makes a massive diffference of how they perform.

King springs havnt had the best rep over the years but they are gritty people. They have developed their product to the point where they are one of the few spring makers in the world who guarantee their springs not to sag.

As for ride softness. they and most spring makers will make springs as soft or as hard as you like.

It isnt the brand that makes them hard or soft. Its the spring rate.

I am currently using the king springs on bilstein shocks and couldnt be happier.

  • Nope 1
shocks generally kyb or standard

And there's your problem......

Only people who don't have shocks capable of controlling decent springs will bitch about Kings. Kings are some of the best springs on the planet. There's a reason why they're the largest spring manufacturer in the southern hemisphere, supplier to race teams all over the world including those in Europe where the likes of Eibach or Koni are ALOT closer, and OEM supplier to Australia's two ultra-premium coilover manufacturers that export race and rally suspension to the world (DMS and MCA).

Also FWIW I'm pretty sure Whiteline springs were rolled by Lovells...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...