Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just purchased some 18'/8.5 silver drifteks, they look pretty good and I got them in a package with 235 Zeetex all round for $1900 new,

I was just a bit concerned with the tyre brand as I have never heard of them before,

Does anyone know much about Zeetex?, I know the guy at the shop so if I don't like them I might end up changing them with a bit of extra dosh his way,

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310818-just-bought-some-18-drifteks/
Share on other sites

mate you've got one of the best cars ever built, please don't put basic tyres under it. even worse, don't put rubbish tyes under it then spend money on mods for power/handling/brakes. Remember every single $$ you spend on that stuff gets transmitted through whatever tyres you fit.

For between 250 and 400 a tyre (ie no more than $1600), you can make your car handle brilliantly without changing anything else

If you are looking for good value performance tyres check out falken fk 452, federal 595S or kumho ku36. All very good value for money and some of the best ways you can improve your car.

I bought a set of Zeetex lately but 17" for my stock GTT wheels @ $135 per corner. I got no issues with them - but in saying that I don't really drive my car too hard. They are quiet, smooth, better acceleration, stop pretty well and seem to have improved my fuel economy.

But I do notice it has some slight squirm under tighter corners - I'm guessing its due to its softer sidewalls - compared to my older tyres.

I guess the tyre is designed as an "overall"/daily tyre as opposed to a true sports tyre.

If your car is cruiser/daily and don't really push it - I think it is a good value option.

whats wrong with driftteks ? better then some of the trash i see around thats for sure

I don't think he's saying there's anything wrong drifteks. He outlined "FOOT" cause the title is 18'(Feet/foot) when it's meant to be 18"(inch/inches) *sorry for going off topic lol*

argh i couldn't hold out any longer

18' drifteks? 18 FOOT drifteks? REALLY?

and ffs don't cheap out on tyres..

haha you know what i mean lol i missed the other apostrophe,

and i got the guy to swap the tyres for marongoni's free of charge, don't ask me how i got away with that though lol

haha you know what i mean lol i missed the other apostrophe,

and i got the guy to swap the tyres for marongoni's free of charge, don't ask me how i got away with that though lol

because maringoni's are a cheap tyre that did well in a wheels mag test and places are buying them in bulk amounts due to the number of sheep that think wheels is a gospel :blink:

also the guy is your mate

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...