Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Auto Sparky Asap.

Ten Four

By Ten Four,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ten Four Grand Master

Ten Four

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey, just had someone go for a drive in my car. Drove about 10kms without issue then got back and I drove it about 2km and it died at the lights. Started it again and then it just went jerky constantly (like a huuuuuuuuge misfire), died again and left at side of road. After that it wouldnt keep going for about 3mins. Eventually, it started and drove as per normal all the way home. Now it won't start....

Car is located at Wembley and would like this issue fixed asap.

Car specs: (incase it helps)

Engine and Drive train

Sydney Kid RB26 build including

8.8 to 1 compression ratio

ACL 86mm Forged pistons

Eagle H Beam forged rods

ARP Rod Bolts

ACL rings

ARP head studs

ARP main bearing studs

600HP Head work

Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves

Adjustable Cam Gears (set to standard at the moment, heaps more bottom end there to be dialed in)

Balanced rotating mass

Sump Extension - Extra few Litres with full baffles

HKS 2530 Turbos

700cc 12A Turbo Injectors

80mm AFM's

Power FC with Hand Controller

K&N Pod Filters

HKS Billet Flywheel

Jim Berry clutch (HKS Twin plate rebuilt by Jim Berry)

Full Redline Racing oils front to back

Ceramic coated exhaust manifolds, turbine housing, dump pipes and Y pipes

Bosch 044 Race Fuel Pump

N1 oil pump

New cambelt pulleys

Wide oil pump drive flange

Oil flow restrictors

New Cambelt

Block O’rings

Engine 6000kms old.

OTHER STUFF

Slotted Brake Rotors (Front + Rear)

Fujitsbo Catback Exhaust

Autowatch alarm system.

Alpine stereo - MB Quart splits up front and two ways in the rear.

Interior is in MINT condition

Apexi AVCR Electronic Boost Controller

Defi link Gauges with control unit II - Exhaust Temp (needs new probe/sensor), Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure.

Front Strut Tower Brace

New Radiator

Iridium Plugs (new)

Would like this issue sorted asap, thanks guys. PH no: 0430 732 528, James.

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310948-need-auto-sparky-asap/
Share on other sites
Ten Four Grand Master

Ten Four

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah, it starts then dies instantly (was perfect except for this bizaar 5min stint...). It was in Hyperdrive about a week ago and they checked the tune and said it was ok but rich so the leaned it out a bit. They also mentioned a electrical problem as the front right headlight wasnt working and the globes were fine. So at this stage, I've concluded auto sparky.... It'll be going back to Hyperdrive anyway as the hicas lock bar they installed hasnt killed hicas....

Edited by Ten Four
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted
. It'll be going back to Hyperdrive anyway as the hicas lock bar they installed hasnt killed hicas....

wait.. what? You mean that the rear wheels still move? Unless it was a tomei lock kit, all the others don't affect the electronics, so if there is a fault in the hicas system, it will still be there with a lock bar.

More related to your problem, check your afm connections, had the same symptoms on mine at one point.

Ten Four Grand Master

Ten Four

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, hicas is a weird one..... Its definitely installed and I can definitely still feel it. Going to see what they say anyway.

Pretty sure its got RB25 AFMs on it - told me it was something to do with unlimited air flow or something. (Sorry, not keyed in there). Will have a look when I can.

Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted
Yeah, hicas is a weird one..... Its definitely installed and I can definitely still feel it.

Are you sure? Maybe what you thought was the HICAS feeling was just the back end squirming or to do with your LSD (or lack of it)?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Was informed by Andrew at hyperdrive that his car does the same thing.... Goes light during hard cornering for handling purposes (easier to steer or something).

Wut?

Yes they have speed sensitive steering, is that what you're referring to?

Flash89 Mentor

Flash89

Posted
Posted

have roughly the same probs with my 32 i am just saving some money for z32 afms. im not sure if the car will run in limp mode with the power fc. but with the factory ecu it runs in limp mode when the afm plugs are unplugged. it basically runs a base map. but i dont think the power fc can go on limp mode

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...