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Hey, just had someone go for a drive in my car. Drove about 10kms without issue then got back and I drove it about 2km and it died at the lights. Started it again and then it just went jerky constantly (like a huuuuuuuuge misfire), died again and left at side of road. After that it wouldnt keep going for about 3mins. Eventually, it started and drove as per normal all the way home. Now it won't start....

Car is located at Wembley and would like this issue fixed asap.

Car specs: (incase it helps)

Engine and Drive train

Sydney Kid RB26 build including

8.8 to 1 compression ratio

ACL 86mm Forged pistons

Eagle H Beam forged rods

ARP Rod Bolts

ACL rings

ARP head studs

ARP main bearing studs

600HP Head work

Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves

Adjustable Cam Gears (set to standard at the moment, heaps more bottom end there to be dialed in)

Balanced rotating mass

Sump Extension - Extra few Litres with full baffles

HKS 2530 Turbos

700cc 12A Turbo Injectors

80mm AFM's

Power FC with Hand Controller

K&N Pod Filters

HKS Billet Flywheel

Jim Berry clutch (HKS Twin plate rebuilt by Jim Berry)

Full Redline Racing oils front to back

Ceramic coated exhaust manifolds, turbine housing, dump pipes and Y pipes

Bosch 044 Race Fuel Pump

N1 oil pump

New cambelt pulleys

Wide oil pump drive flange

Oil flow restrictors

New Cambelt

Block O’rings

Engine 6000kms old.

OTHER STUFF

Slotted Brake Rotors (Front + Rear)

Fujitsbo Catback Exhaust

Autowatch alarm system.

Alpine stereo - MB Quart splits up front and two ways in the rear.

Interior is in MINT condition

Apexi AVCR Electronic Boost Controller

Defi link Gauges with control unit II - Exhaust Temp (needs new probe/sensor), Oil Temp, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure.

Front Strut Tower Brace

New Radiator

Iridium Plugs (new)

Would like this issue sorted asap, thanks guys. PH no: 0430 732 528, James.

Edited by Ten Four
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Yeah, it starts then dies instantly (was perfect except for this bizaar 5min stint...). It was in Hyperdrive about a week ago and they checked the tune and said it was ok but rich so the leaned it out a bit. They also mentioned a electrical problem as the front right headlight wasnt working and the globes were fine. So at this stage, I've concluded auto sparky.... It'll be going back to Hyperdrive anyway as the hicas lock bar they installed hasnt killed hicas....

Edited by Ten Four
. It'll be going back to Hyperdrive anyway as the hicas lock bar they installed hasnt killed hicas....

wait.. what? You mean that the rear wheels still move? Unless it was a tomei lock kit, all the others don't affect the electronics, so if there is a fault in the hicas system, it will still be there with a lock bar.

More related to your problem, check your afm connections, had the same symptoms on mine at one point.

Yeah, hicas is a weird one..... Its definitely installed and I can definitely still feel it. Going to see what they say anyway.

Pretty sure its got RB25 AFMs on it - told me it was something to do with unlimited air flow or something. (Sorry, not keyed in there). Will have a look when I can.

Yeah, hicas is a weird one..... Its definitely installed and I can definitely still feel it.

Are you sure? Maybe what you thought was the HICAS feeling was just the back end squirming or to do with your LSD (or lack of it)?

Was informed by Andrew at hyperdrive that his car does the same thing.... Goes light during hard cornering for handling purposes (easier to steer or something).

Wut?

Yes they have speed sensitive steering, is that what you're referring to?

have roughly the same probs with my 32 i am just saving some money for z32 afms. im not sure if the car will run in limp mode with the power fc. but with the factory ecu it runs in limp mode when the afm plugs are unplugged. it basically runs a base map. but i dont think the power fc can go on limp mode

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