Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, Could someone please advise. I am a vehicle importer and managed to pick up an old skyline on a trip. 1984 DR30 RS turbo. Car is rust free and would suit restoration. Bodywork solid and interior quite neat but requires repaint. Seems to run and drive well. FJ20 with large turbo. Could someone please advise on what this car may be worth? I can be contacted on [email protected] for further info

post-71406-1268000110_thumb.jpg

post-71406-1268000154_thumb.jpg

post-71406-1268000174_thumb.jpg

post-71406-1268000198_thumb.jpg

post-71406-1268000221_thumb.jpg

post-71406-1268000249_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311054-dr30-skyline-rs-1984/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys, Could someone please advise. I am a vehicle importer and managed to pick up an old skyline on a trip. 1984 DR30 RS turbo. Car is rust free and would suit restoration. Bodywork solid and interior quite neat but requires repaint. Seems to run and drive well. FJ20 with large turbo. Could someone please advise on what this car may be worth? I can be contacted on [email protected] for further info

hey Simon

working as a car importer myself for neally 10 years i hope i can atleast throw some advice in here lol

if you can comply and register it you will be able to move it easier my guess is that it is between 7-10k if registered. it looks like a clean genuine car so that will help it, its not going to move quick unless its cheap as it is still an old car classic or not.

also as i am sure that you will be aware presentation will also help.

Marc

Edited by FJ20DR30

Hi,

It's been on eBay a few times now. 'Buy now' price was $17.5K, then $15K, and (as of today) $10K.

eBay link

Starting price of $10K attracted 0 bids on two listings.  Now listed as $8000 but still 'reserve not met'. 

It's probably not a good comparison but the two PNV Skylines remain unsold after many months at a current price of $8.5K. The last DR30 sale here (correct me if wrong) was D-Limo to Ghostrider at around $4K. 

Looking at the pics, I'm wondering what this cable, heat shielding cloth and tape (hopefully not duct tape!) is all about.

post-61769-1268172455_thumb.jpg 

Has anyone here been to see the car? (Dennis perhaps?)

JH

if it was really clean I could understand 15,000 but even then I dont think the australian market values DR30's too much.

From what I think Its much cheaper to buy one already in Australia but you will get a 'drifter' or 'fixer-upper' not many clean ones go up for sale, with the exception like ravenoak and Vaughn's DR30's.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

It's been on eBay a few times now. 'Buy now' price was $17.5K, then $15K, and (as of today) $10K.

eBay link

Starting price of $10K attracted 0 bids on two listings. Now listed as $8000 but still 'reserve not met'.

It's probably not a good comparison but the two PNV Skylines remain unsold after many months at a current price of $8.5K. The last DR30 sale here (correct me if wrong) was D-Limo to Ghostrider at around $4K.

Looking at the pics, I'm wondering what this cable, heat shielding cloth and tape (hopefully not duct tape!) is all about.

post-61769-1268172455_thumb.jpg

Has anyone here been to see the car? (Dennis perhaps?)

JH

I looked at this car today!

It is at JAX Quickfit Narellan (5 Yarmouth Place Smeaton Grange) and the same guy owns Sydney Compliance Centre.

It is an 6th month (June) 1983 model according to FAST, not 84 as advertised. Body number DR30-030326.

The braided line is the oil feed line to the turbo and the insulation over it is protecting it from the tube bent exhaust manifold AND surprise surprise, the insulation is held on by 100mph cloth reinforced tape.

The turbo is an interesting piece of work, has GARRETT on the front housing, A/R 0.50, has what looks to me as a standard dump pipe, yet is externally wastegated which vents to atmosphere through a screamer pipe to just below the floor pan.

The piping to the throttle body is extra dodgy, lots of backyard welds and not good ones, made up of bits of stock factory piping and whatever was lying around by the looks.

There is a stay arrangement fabricated to mount on the strut brace & inlet manifold to control engine hop under acceleration.

The carbon canister is just wedged in the front, isn't held in any way other than got nowhere it can go.

Paint is very ordinary, crows feet and bubbles all over it, with clear peeling in lots of places, which would need to be addressed if going to be a street car. So I guess a bare metal respray would be in order to make it a nice daily. The white marks on the front bumper is paint peeling, either clear and or black. S2 84/85 bumpers fitted with a/mkt indicators fitted with wiring going through early mount holes in guards.

Interior is clean with lots of gauges & turbo timer & boost controler.

Overall, not my cup of tea ....... too far gone for a streeter and too expensive for a drifter as it's a non intercooled R/S poverty pack that needs lots of dollars thrown at it.

Cheers, D

post-2962-1268993354_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1268993375_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1268993393_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Ghostrider i offered him 5k when it was on eBay he came back with it has a 6500 reserve but looking at the other pics

I'm glad he didn't except really i wouldn't take it of his hands for more than 3k so i think it will stay with him for a long time.

  • 2 weeks later...

was interested in this as well,

thanks for the detailed description there Ghostrider, saves me from going to have a look at it now.

May just have to import a bog stock RS-X seeing as though clean ones are near impossible to find here for the right $$

Geez $6k for that is about $3k too much!!

wow... that's cheep for what we pay for them.. Talk to orion, cost him around 10-12k per dr30 landed and on the road. (NZ)

My hr30 before all the work was valued at 3.5k. I guess the market is a lot different there ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...