Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ive recently noticed that right under where i sit in the drivers seat, whenever in gear (manual transmission) and in hi revs (i.e. 4000rpm +) my car has this really loud sucking noise.. or as if thers a massive hole in the exhaus system and air is jus gushing out of it...

it has lost top end power as well... i got a new cat fitted today - didnt fix the problem - i can still hear it occassionally... and the guys had it on the hoist and listened through a stethoscope (sp) on every joint, gasket and bit of exhaust and couldnt find any faults... before and after the cat being fitted..

just wondering what this could be?? im under the impression the stock extractors wouldnt have anything wrong with them.. they generally dont get holes in them do they?? that is one thing they couldnt check at the time because stuff was in the road so i just said dont worry about it...

anyway if anyone has a solution/suggestion would be much appreciated!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311154-sucking-air/
Share on other sites

The exhaust runs underneath the passenger side of the car and for the record if you had an exhaust leak you should be able to smell it under the car, other thing is to check to see if your extractors are cracked etc. Try checking your air intake aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311154-sucking-air/#findComment-5123140
Share on other sites

umm yeah well when i first took it to the exhaust shop to get it all looked at.. there was black residue all around the connection of the cat etc but it didnt seem to be making any noise from that section at all when he put the stethoscope to it...

but then i got a hi-flow cat in that same day so everything was taken off and tightened again so im pretty sure it isnt the flange or around the cat area... and it was done at a reputable exhaust shop with a high rep.

and nah i havent looked for holes in the floor.. but i will do never thought of that since i did get it converted to a manual a month or so ago and some modifications were done to fit my clutch pedal, i believe its only started doing it after all this work was done...

but anyway.. its going down this arvo to get looked at hopefully and i'll get all of these things checked out but yeah im still leanin toward my extractors now... i have been wanting a set from DKNE so maybe here's my excuse :)

cheers

Edited by noely1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311154-sucking-air/#findComment-5126220
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...