Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello :blink:

Im trying to figure out a styline route for my R34 4 door. Does anybody know (for certain) what the compatability is between the 2 door and 4 door chassis?

Are the wings/bonnet/front and rear bumper the same on both cars?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311473-r34-4-door-vs-2-door-compatibility/
Share on other sites

front bar is the same, bonnet same

rear bar is not

wings? you mean front fenders? or side skirts?

- Front fenders the same - Pretty much everything up to the A pillar.

- Whole dash assembly the same.

- Front seats the same

- Front suspension, Rear suspension - the same (...but I've read somewhere - please don't quote me on this - stock front suspension on the sedan is slightly stiffer due to the extra weight when braking)

- Tail lights - different

- Boot - Different

- Rear bar - Different.

Eastbear have some nice coupe/GTR style bumpers and panels for the R34 4 door -> http://www.east-bear.co.jp/

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
To have the front bar bonnet off a gtr i beileve you have to replace the bonnet bar an fenders all in one hit.

Also the mounting points for the lights are different as far as I know, which mat suggest the fron uprights needs changing to do it all properly. Otherwise you can knock up brackets to fit the GT-R lights.

  • 2 weeks later...

i think you will find the front seats are different from 4 door to 2 door.

i purchased a set of front seat rails for a 34 gtt autotechnia brand i think they were, sign said 34 4 door compatible, tried fitting and works out they are only for 2 door version. rang mob who made them and they said the 4 and 2 door are different, and they don't make 4 door version. bolt holes at rear of seat are the difference.

I have a 2001 turbo sedan with the update bumper and wanna take it off to fit a non turbo early model bumper :(

Is there a difference between early model turbo and non turbo front bumpers?

Or are people refering to the non turbo as the standard type then the turbo as the nismo option type?

Attached picture's for reference, the black one to me is the standard bumper with the lip, the orange one the Nismo option bar, then you get the later model round type?

Oh and seats 2 door and 4 door are the same, but 2wd - 4wd are different.

post-11869-1274587009_thumb.jpg

post-11869-1274587020_thumb.jpg

Edited by msports180
i think you will find the front seats are different from 4 door to 2 door.

i purchased a set of front seat rails for a 34 gtt autotechnia brand i think they were, sign said 34 4 door compatible, tried fitting and works out they are only for 2 door version. rang mob who made them and they said the 4 and 2 door are different, and they don't make 4 door version. bolt holes at rear of seat are the difference.

Seats are the same. Could be the rails that are different lengths - as you will need to move the seats more for coupes for rear passenger access.

And there's no difference between early model and late model front bumper fitment?

I have a 2001 turbo sedan with the update bumper and wanna take it off to fit a non turbo early model bumper :(

If you are running the stock side mounted intercooler - I do NOT recommend putting a non-turbo bumper - reason being is that it needs the side vent.

If you have a front mount intercooler - the non-turbo bumper will be ok, but may require some modification.

If you intend on keeping the side mount intercooler - your options are limited to the GTT bumper or nismo bumper - or if you're really keen a GT-R bumper, which means you will need a new bonnet, side fenders etc.

Is there a difference between early model turbo and non turbo front bumpers?

Or are people refering to the non turbo as the standard type then the turbo as the nismo option type?

Attached picture's for reference, the black one to me is the standard bumper with the lip, the orange one the Nismo option bar, then you get the later model round type?

Oh and seats 2 door and 4 door are the same, but 2wd - 4wd are different.

Non turbo doesn't have the vent on the side for the intercooler etc. Seeing as I don't want that, that's the reason for going non turbo.

Does anyone know if the tailshafts are the same between 2 door manual gtt and 4 door auto gtt? I need the rear section changed on my 2 door as the center bearing has collapsed on the rear sectin of the two piece tailshaft and I have access to replace it with a 4 door auto shaft and bearing.

Here is a picture of the part in question...

PICT0009.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...