Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just fitted wallbro into my GTR on advise from a motorsport shop that does tuning aswell as sell parts, now i'm not sure if it was a good idea as i took car for drive after doing change and is no longer blowing black smoke under boost, any thoughts would be appriciated.

Cheers Michael

Edited by XKLABA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311731-r32-gtr-fuel-pump-v-wallbro/
Share on other sites

Walbro in a GTR?

oh dear... thats like putting a ebay turbo onto a GTR, nasty...

Did you even test the fuel pressure to confirm the fuel pump was dead?

If it is NOT blowing fuel under boost - it probably means the pump/motor is leaning out... again, another major issue...

Walbro in a GTR?

oh dear... thats like putting a ebay turbo onto a GTR, nasty...

Did you even test the fuel pressure to confirm the fuel pump was dead?

If it is NOT blowing fuel under boost - it probably means the pump/motor is leaning out... again, another major issue...

Are they really that bad, do you have flow rates for gtr fuel pump to compare them and do you have any experience personaly with a walbro pump in a gtr.

Cheers Michael

Are they really that bad, do you have flow rates for gtr fuel pump to compare them and do you have any experience personaly with a walbro pump in a gtr.

Cheers Michael

I've used Walbro pumps before, in a "gtr" makes zero difference, it's just a mechanical part.

From what i've seen, they are poor. Ok for setups 260rwkw or less, othewise forget it.

Get a decent pump, that is well known.

For $220 for a Bosch, i mean - why skimp on a super important part that is very cheap?

And the fact you car is no longer blowing a fuel cloud would suggest it's running very lean = BAD.

cut your losses, sell the walbro to a mate, get a bosch 044 mounted in the tank and youll be fine, do this before you get a tune, and i wouldnt worry about FPR unless there is something wrong with your current one,

cut your losses, sell the walbro to a mate, get a bosch 044 mounted in the tank and youll be fine, do this before you get a tune, and i wouldnt worry about FPR unless there is something wrong with your current one,

The idea behind these were because at 19psi the stock injectors are maxed so for a bit of safety i am going to turn up base fuel pressure a couple of pound, so i don't have to get new injectors for this engine as it is a bandaid engine while i get the next engine ready which is going to run a different style of injector

the old pump was the original pump that is now 17 years and 180000+km old, i took car for another run and is blowing smoke again

Doesn't matter mate... for the sake of the car, get it on a dyno and see what is going on.

Also check the fuel pump voltage... i assume you wired it correctly and used new wiring?

The idea behind these were because at 19psi the stock injectors are maxed so for a bit of safety i am going to turn up base fuel pressure a couple of pound, so i don't have to get new injectors for this engine as it is a bandaid engine while i get the next engine ready which is going to run a different style of injector

Why would you bother getting a new fuel pump, a FPR and having it tuned when it's just a bandaid engine?

Turn the boost back til you have safe injector duty, keep the standard FPR on, spent the saved money on your new engine?

why do people bag Walbro pumps?

i put one in my car when i had the injectors upgraded, the GTR was obviously tunned because the injectors were upgraded.

i was advised by my mechanic who is quite reputable here in Adelaide that there really isnt any difference in the pumps, appart from the Bosch one being louder.

Why would you bother getting a new fuel pump, a FPR and having it tuned when it's just a bandaid engine?

Turn the boost back til you have safe injector duty, keep the standard FPR on, spent the saved money on your new engine?

I am trying to bet my 11.36 on stock turbos while leaving engine as stock as possible to see what i can get out of it.

how hard is it to install a bosch 044 in tank fuel pump in an r32 gtr? compares to a walboro ?

i was told they were similar price and performace but the bosch is very noicey, not good when police pull you over and there is a loud buzzing coming from the back of the car.

why do people bag Walbro pumps?

i put one in my car when i had the injectors upgraded, the GTR was obviously tunned because the injectors were upgraded.

i was advised by my mechanic who is quite reputable here in Adelaide that there really isnt any difference in the pumps, appart from the Bosch one being louder.

thank you you made me feel a bit better about putting it in

Doesn't matter mate... for the sake of the car, get it on a dyno and see what is going on.

Also check the fuel pump voltage... i assume you wired it correctly and used new wiring?

yes and no i put in a relay with 15gauge wire and fuse but used old wire as trigger, only problem with this set up is the pump runs at 100% all the time, not sure how else to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...