Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

back again as another problem arises..

Yesterday i was driving to work and hit full boost along came a pop/bang sound.

Now the car misfires very badly and has a very very rough idle and most times it would stall when it does rev heaps of black smoke (unburnt fuel) comes out.

Checked AFM plug & CAS plug both of them are on firm.

Even swapped over Fuel Pumps but no luck in solving the problem.

Now this does sound like a coilpack problem so tested each coilpack. 2-6 makes the misfiring more worse but coilpack 1 sounds like it doesnt make a difference when disconnected.

Before i go swapping coilpacks from my mates car is there any other solution?

Also when i press the accelerator it doesnt want to rev instead it wants to die out. This part doesnt sound like a coilpack problem moreso fuel related right?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311838-rb20-misfiringstallingrough-idle/
Share on other sites

Now this does sound like a coilpack problem so tested each coilpack. 2-6 makes the misfiring more worse but coilpack 1 sounds like it doesnt make a difference when disconnected.

Before i go swapping coilpacks from my mates car is there any other solution?

First off, swap your own coil packs around (eg, 1<->2) to determine if it's the coilpack itself, or something else like an injector.

Pull the spark plug to make sure it's still ok.

well i thought i had solved the problem but turns out i was wrong.. i originaly thought it was the afm because i unplugged it while the car was running and it went in to limp mode, once i plugged it back in it started to run like shit again. i bought a new one and fitted it but still have the same problem.. any suggestions woould be appreciated.

Mate if you were driving and u herd a bang.... and all of a sudden ur cars blowing black smoke ... does it cross your mind you may have a f**ked head gasket? or something "mechanical" not electronical / sensor problem ?

If it's blowing black smoke, it's not a head gasket.

Sounds like a cooler pipe or a vacuum line somewhere just toasted itself. Hence, the unplug the AFM and it wants to run okay.

wasent refering the black smoke to gasket was just a random suggestion .... if u read it properly...

thanks for the feed back guys, i will be pulling apart the cooler pipes and re fitting them to see if i have any split joins and will search again for any vacume lines which may have come loose.. i will post up the results..

and if anyone needs an rb20 afm green label i have a spare lol.

Check the intercooler pipeing

i had a almost the same thing happen once

hit full boost bang black smoke bugger!!!!

turns out the cer clip on the bottom intercooler pipe popped off

slipped it back on and replaced it with a j clip and problem solved

this was on a R33 mind you

finally fixed it.. feel abit stupid but yes it was the bottom intercooler pipe..just slipped out the bottom by 5mm which was enough to cause such a big headache..

still missfires abit but i think the plugs could have fouled up from running it so much.. i tested all the coilpacks and they are all working fine, so thanks heaps guys. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...