Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Stereo Install

BezerkR32

By BezerkR32,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

I am looking into replacing stereo in m35 stagea as factory cd player doesnt work. Chris was good enough to let me know that they are repairable but for $600. I would still have to remove it as i live south of sydney so driving it up to Brisbane for a install is a bit silly. was also toying with the idea of an after market head unit, but have been told the facia plates are $500 because they include some air conditioning module as it has to be broken off in the removal process which doesnt sound right to me. any help or a step by step diss-assembly guide would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312147-m35-stereo-install/
Share on other sites
nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted

Here you go...

Here

I think lots of us have the stuff autochanger... It is partly caused by the heads not being "parked" (like on an old hard disc) before the cars are transported to Oz.

Because it is such a pain to get fixed, the iPod install really does seem to be the best solution..

Using one of these...

iPod controller

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

panel and AC controller are the go to do it correctly. the A/C side of things is PART of the radio panel and as such it's not a moddable (new word -yay!) item. I can take photos (and have done so in the past.) but the question will still come up and I'l still answer it the same way :cool:

as for the parking issue - nup! these things spit gears due to age and heat. common ones are on the laser drive and as such it causes a chain reactiion taking everything in the direct path with it.

doing it cheaply, $320 + frieght will net the IPOD lead from me and you can tear the dash down in 20 or so minutes plug it in and you are done. if you have the controls on the wheel then the ipod will drive from there as well.

your call.

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

this sounds great, but the pulling down of the dash is what im concerned about.

OK, i know see that the issue is replacing the top facia, which is not an issue when leaving the std deck. Thanks heaps.

panel and AC controller are the go to do it correctly. the A/C side of things is PART of the radio panel and as such it's not a moddable (new word -yay!) item. I can take photos (and have done so in the past.) but the question will still come up and I'l still answer it the same way :cool:

as for the parking issue - nup! these things spit gears due to age and heat. common ones are on the laser drive and as such it causes a chain reactiion taking everything in the direct path with it.

doing it cheaply, $320 + frieght will net the IPOD lead from me and you can tear the dash down in 20 or so minutes plug it in and you are done. if you have the controls on the wheel then the ipod will drive from there as well.

your call.

nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted (edited)
as for the parking issue - nup! these things spit gears due to age and heat. common ones are on the laser drive and as such it causes a chain reactiion taking everything in the direct path with it.

I only said part of the reason... :blush:

These cars may given a good bounce around on their journey to Oz, much more so than the domestic sea journey between the Japanese islands.. Surely that might make some contribution to a weak head drive finally collapsing.. I had been told that this was why the CD/DVD heads are parked on the audios as part of the global industry leaving the factory check list...

So are these Nissan/Bose units worse than any other brand? Was it a fundimental design flaw? As the other parts of the units, radio, tape (yes I did use it once I found the stuffed CD) external CD changers etc. seem to work quite well.

And as for pulling down the dash... It really isn't so hard, once you read through that stuff on the G35.. Also gives you a chance to correct the "tiptronic" shift direction when you have the centre console out. :yes:

Edited by nickcorr
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
this sounds great, but the pulling down of the dash is what im concerned about.

OK, i know see that the issue is replacing the top facia, which is not an issue when leaving the std deck. Thanks heaps.

so you follow now. its not that bad.

do you want me to send you a lead?. can have one there thurs morn :blush:

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
I only said part of the reason... :blush:

These cars may given a good bounce around on their journey to Oz, much more so than the domestic sea journey between the Japanese islands.. Surely that might make some contribution to a weak head drive finally collapsing.. I had been told that this was why the CD/DVD heads are parked on the audios as part of the global industry leaving the factory check list...

true on NEW units. these things are at least 6 yrs old (they swapped the decks in 2004 and again in 2005.) before you get them. given most of these are 2001-2003 versions they are well and truly on the way out. the laser alone is not meant to live past 5 yrs.

So are these Nissan/Bose units worse than any other brand? Was it a fundimental design flaw? As the other parts of the units, radio, tape (yes I did use it once I found the stuffed CD) external CD changers etc. seem to work quite well.

they are FULL of flaws. there are design flaws in the PSU section for one. I dare say thats why nissan changed them late 2003 and again in nov 04. 3 units and 3 different mechs. the middle unit runs the same mech as a PN2541 (350Z radio) and that one suffers flaws as well. (electrical- they changed the design a LOT in those so they do not self destruct.) the 3rd revison they appeared to fix the electrical issue in them and a minor mechanical change from what I can see.

And as for pulling down the dash... It really isn't so hard, once you read through that stuff on the G35.. Also gives you a chance to correct the "tiptronic" shift direction when you have the centre console out. :yes:

correct. though the shifter is a matter of prefernce.

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

now that i know whats involved i can tell the boss what the go is, as its her car, but id say she will be keen.

i know the shifter works in reverse to most cars but i like it.

true on NEW units. these things are at least 6 yrs old (they swapped the decks in 2004 and again in 2005.) before you get them. given most of these are 2001-2003 versions they are well and truly on the way out. the laser alone is not meant to live past 5 yrs.

they are FULL of flaws. there are design flaws in the PSU section for one. I dare say thats why nissan changed them late 2003 and again in nov 04. 3 units and 3 different mechs. the middle unit runs the same mech as a PN2541 (350Z radio) and that one suffers flaws as well. (electrical- they changed the design a LOT in those so they do not self destruct.) the 3rd revison they appeared to fix the electrical issue in them and a minor mechanical change from what I can see.

correct. though the shifter is a matter of prefernce.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...