Jump to content
SAU Community

Question About Stock R34 Gtt Ecu

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just wanted to find out for sure if the stock GTT ECU has an ISO14230 connector? I am looking to buy a Greddy Informeter Touch, which is an OBD2 monitor that plugs straight in to the ISO14230 connector. It can also connect to Nissan CONSULT. I just want to make sure that it is compatible with my car before i buy it.

Cheers,

Martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312173-question-about-stock-r34-gtt-ecu/
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just went and had a look at my car, and there is a little panel that pops out down near my feet, near the bonnet release lever. There is a wiring harness that comes out from that, would that be my ISO14230?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it should be consult

Thanks for that mate.

I will have to get confirmation from Greddy about whether it can measure boost, oil and water temperature with the non-OBD connector. I may end up going with ARK MFD as that just splices straight into the ECU's wires so it is compatible with any car... Will wait to hear back from Greddy first though.

Thanks for your help guys

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted
thats OBD2 port so i would say yes

just in case anyone reads this and thinks its correct, its not. R34 does NOT have an OBD2 port, only a consult port. V35 and up have OBD2 port.

so yes it has the consult port. OBD1 isnt really a standard, people just use OBD/OBD1 to often mean 'something which isnt OBD2', so its not good to use OBD/OBD1 in terms of identifying a diagnostics port at all.

the ECU doesnt read boost and oil, so unless the touch has external wiring for that, you wont get that.

make sure you consider the ECUTalk V2 display before spending 3 times as much on a toy.

normally for monitoring people will get a consult device + gauges for the un-monitorable via consult (oil temp and/or pressure, boost, and sometimes wideband o2 and EGT).

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just in case anyone reads this and thinks its correct, its not. R34 does NOT have an OBD2 port, only a consult port. V35 and up have OBD2 port.

so yes it has the consult port. OBD1 isnt really a standard, people just use OBD/OBD1 to often mean 'something which isnt OBD2', so its not good to use OBD/OBD1 in terms of identifying a diagnostics port at all.

the ECU doesnt read boost and oil, so unless the touch has external wiring for that, you wont get that.

make sure you consider the ECUTalk V2 display before spending 3 times as much on a toy.

normally for monitoring people will get a consult device + gauges for the un-monitorable via consult (oil temp and/or pressure, boost, and sometimes wideband o2 and EGT).

Thanks for clarifying mate.

Both the Greddy Infometer and the ARK MFD have adaptors to plug in additional sensors for boost, oil temperature/pressure, water temperature, and wideband o2 and EGT. So that is no problem.

At this stage i think i will go for the ARK MFD as it does not use the diagnostic port, however if the Greddy Touch can still display the optional sensors with non-OBD then i would rather go for that as it has more functions.

I have looked at the ECUTalk V2 Display, but i think for almost a similar price as the ARK MFD, with less functions and, lets be honest, horrible appearance, the ARK MFD or Greddy Touch would be the better option

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

isnt the ARK MFD more than double the ecutalk?

guess it depends on what purpose you need it for, and whether you need it just for its functionality or if it has to look the part also, which the ecutalk display is pretty plain.

i would have thought that the 3 sensors not available via consult, you'd want boost and oil pressure as standalone gauges? so then you're really only getting oil temp more than whats available via consult.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ARK MFD is about $400 and can read boost straight off the bat, doesn't need additional sensors. It is mostly for functionality, but looks does come in to it, i don't want an 80's looking gadget. That and the fact that i find the ARK MFD a hell of a lot easier to read, rather than trying to make out what the ECUTalk is saying.

I will need to get the additional sensors for oil temp/pressure, and water temperature. But i find the price of the ARK MFD + sensors better than the price of all the Defi gauges i would need to monitor all the things the MFD can monitor.

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

where have u found it at that price? ark website has the unit at $459 + $79 temp sensor, $179 pressure = $717USD. im sure you can get it cheaper elsewhere etc, but thats quite a lot of dollars.

which readings/screen would you monitor 24/7? (i see theres a 4 gauge or 8 gauge mode, presumably one of those?).

and comparing to cost of defi gauges is going to make anything look cheaper :blush:

i guess one of the benefits of the ARK is that it doesnt take the consult port, so if you wanted to add something off that later you can. anyway looks like you know all your options, good luck.

  • 3 months later...
fcukinky Community Regular

fcukinky

Posted
Posted
ARK MFD is about $400 and can read boost straight off the bat, doesn't need additional sensors. It is mostly for functionality, but looks does come in to it, i don't want an 80's looking gadget. That and the fact that i find the ARK MFD a hell of a lot easier to read, rather than trying to make out what the ECUTalk is saying.

I will need to get the additional sensors for oil temp/pressure, and water temperature. But i find the price of the ARK MFD + sensors better than the price of all the Defi gauges i would need to monitor all the things the MFD can monitor.

I am also looking at getting the GREDDY INTELLIGENT INFOMETER TOUCH, but did not want to open a new post.

Did you end up getting this ?

I have got a r34 GTT 98 and was hoping to get the Greddy Infometer.

From what I have read it should be okay as long as you get the additional harness for Nissan CONSULT ?

I have looked through the forum and this seems like the latest talk about this.

Thanks

P

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah didn't end up getting it mate, went with the ARK MFD instead as it wires straight into the ECU so I didn't have to purchase an extra cable. The ARK also comes with a boost sensor, so didn't have to purchase another sensor. In the end worked out about $400-$500 cheaper, and it's really easy to use :whistling:

  • 6 months later...
Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted

Nah didn't end up getting it mate, went with the ARK MFD instead as it wires straight into the ECU so I didn't have to purchase an extra cable. The ARK also comes with a boost sensor, so didn't have to purchase another sensor. In the end worked out about $400-$500 cheaper, and it's really easy to use :whistling:

You need the Infometer touch with a non-OBD (Nissan) connector.

Seems about the same price as the ARK MFD but you don't have to hack into the loom and has no buttons - just touch goodness.

Much better than buying Defi gauges which are even more wallet raping.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Given the cost you're looking at outlaying, and you still have to find somewhere to mount it, and given you have an R34 - have you considered just retrofitting an R34 GTR MFD?

There are plenty of tutorials/guidelines on how to fit - it will display boost/ignition duty cycle/water temperature/oil temperature/throttle position (and intake/exhaust temp if you fit extra sensors).

You'd probably be looking at $900-1000 for the unit + a few hours to wire it all up. Definitely an option in my opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...