Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic License Question

Crackfox

By Crackfox,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crackfox Community Regular

Crackfox

Posted
Posted

OK so I might be moving to victoria in ~3 months, I am currently living in WA, where P plate laws aren't so insanely strict, and I'm 18 years old and just got my full license.

Will I be able to keep my turbo car or buy another v8 and/or turbo?

Will I keep my full license or have to go on p plates?

Ringing up the WA licensing centre was useless and I spent ages waiting, and no one seems to be able to provide me with an answer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312788-vic-license-question/
Share on other sites
Crackfox Community Regular

Crackfox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
try calling vicroads?

i have a bad feeling that you will be stuck on p plates because of your age.

I might have to eventually but I'd rather try get answers somewhere else first. Mobile phone+interstate call+30minutes waiting if its anything like the WA one=lots of credit gone

Crackfox Community Regular

Crackfox

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well I sortof found the answer on the vicroads site, it says:

Eligibility to qualify for a full Victorian licence

You must have held an interstate or NZ licence for at least three years from your 18th birthday to obtain a full Victorian licence. Any period where you have been disqualified from driving either in Victoria, interstate or in NZ, is excluded when calculating the period of time you have held a licence.

If you have held a driver licence for three years or more, but have no evidence of this, you will need to make a declaration stating such on your application form.

If you have held your licence for less than 3 years the appropriate P1 or P2 probationary licence will be issued depending on your age and the period of time the licence has been held.

-------

Atleast 3 years since you turn 18 holding a license so I'll be a p plater again, FML.

Edited by Crackfox
Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted (edited)
Well I sortof found the answer on the vicroads site, it says:

Eligibility to qualify for a full Victorian licence

You must have held an interstate or NZ licence for at least three years from your 18th birthday to obtain a full Victorian licence. Any period where you have been disqualified from driving either in Victoria, interstate or in NZ, is excluded when calculating the period of time you have held a licence.

If you have held a driver licence for three years or more, but have no evidence of this, you will need to make a declaration stating such on your application form.

If you have held your licence for less than 3 years the appropriate P1 or P2 probationary licence will be issued depending on your age and the period of time the licence has been held.

-------

3 years since you are 18 holding a license. FML.

Pretty sure you keep you're license to the conditions you were issued (if that makes sense). Like NSW L Platers can only go 80kmh max, but if a Vic L Plater came into NSW I have been taught they can do the set speed (100kmh). Dont quote me in court if it ends up that way, double check to be sure. Do you HAVE to get it changed to a VIC license? Why?

Edited by Borci88
Crackfox Community Regular

Crackfox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Pretty sure you keep you're license to the conditions you were issued (if that makes sense). Like NSW L Platers can only go 80kmh max, but if a Vic L Plater came into NSW I have been taught they can do the set speed (100kmh). Dont quote me in court if it ends up that way, double check to be sure. Do you HAVE to get it changed to a VIC license? Why?

Well the way the article strait from vicroad reads I will definately be on P1's or P2's, anyone who isnt over 21 becomes a p plater.

And my license has to be transferred within 3 months so I'll have a quarter of a year left with my beloved gtst once I move before I have to buy a depressing car. I may as well use up my other 7 demerit points in this time as well cos I'll have no use for them once I only get a measly 5 on P plates. Then again, that wont be much fun because a speeding fine of 3kmph over the limit is probably 7 demerit points in vic

D-G Rising Star

D-G

Posted
Posted
Hmmm there is also a clause somewhere about special consideration of vehicles. This may include if you legally purchase a car on one licence in WA then move to Vic?

Yeah sort of. You can read more about Exemptions here:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Licenc...gedvehicles.htm

You might be out of luck though, they are a bit *tight ass* about it.

I tried to get one when i bought a turbo RX7, said for work purposes it needed extra power to carry heavy metals. And that car was the only thing in my price range. -Was a no go.

I tried a couple months later again and said my uncle died and left me the car and i can't afford another. -Don't even try this, it gets very messy.

Crackfox Community Regular

Crackfox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm I guess its worth a shot to apply for the exemption, it would be similar to P platers who brought restricted cars before the laws came in I guess

If that doesnt work maybe I will just keep my WA license and car and just drive over to vic and do nothing about it:p I wont change my address to a vic one (instead I can just change my address to my cousins house in WA or something) so technically I could class as living in WA. I would be worried about getting defected though if I attempt this, what would the procedure be for getting and clearing a defect on a WA registered car? And if the same officer spots me 5 times in 8 months or something they will know or suspect I'm not living in WA and could do something about it

FrangaR33 Mentor

FrangaR33

Posted
Posted

You visit alot and you have to go between the states for work :blink:

I wouldnt bother with the exemption it probably wont happen and not only that then its on record you applied for one and then you cant say your from out of state when the cops pull you over.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

They wont even bother defecting a car from antoher state as casue of the laws vary from state to state very rarely that would happen so it could probably work for the better aswel with less cop attention iwth WA pLates

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...