Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 And Grex Oil Coolers

Zardz15

By Zardz15,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zardz15 Explorer

Zardz15

Posted
Posted

hey ppl

im dropping an rb25det into my s13. ive searched for answers and asked a few rb25 owners on ns.com but still cant get the right info

so for anyone with an rb25 and a grex/greddy oil cooler and relo kit pls read on and help, im sure its a simple solution but im just unsure

i get how the cooler and relo kit works, its just the part that goes from the engine block to the grex plate that i dont understand how its supposed to attach.

the grex plate doesnt have any bolt holes so it cant go on like that

so, is there some kind of aftermarket adapter plate i can buy? OR do i use the stock plate and stock oil cooler?? i was under the assumption that by running an a/m oil cooler kit that it would eliminate the use of the stock plate and cooler....but maybe im wrong.

so whats the go?? lol

thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312853-rb25-and-grex-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites
Fat_Tony Collaborator

Fat_Tony

Posted
Posted

Mine came with a centre nut thing that when screwed on holds the plate on. Then you screw on the oil filter to the nut thing. Also ryco Z68 fits onto the Greddy sandwhich plate.

Although mine was just the oil filter kit. No relocation.

Zardz15 Explorer

Zardz15

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it screws on like an oil filter would.

so youre saying i still need to use the stock plate though??

Mine came with a centre nut thing that when screwed on holds the plate on. Then you screw on the oil filter to the nut thing. Also ryco Z68 fits onto the Greddy sandwhich plate.

Although mine was just the oil filter kit. No relocation.

yeah ive got the centre nut thing, however it doesnt screw onto the engine block in anyway unless using the stock plate

heres a pic of the bits ive got:

DSC00489.jpg

the plate up top is the relo plate, the middle plate is the part that would join to the engine block, and theres the centre nut thing at the bottom.

surely you must have to use the stock plate and somehow block off where the stock oil cooler screws on

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you leave the stock heat exchanger and filter mount as it is. the new oil cooler take off plate just goes on in place of the oil filter. so yes, you need to leave the stock heat exchanger/filter mount alone.

zephyro90 Enthusiast

zephyro90

Posted
Posted

question....

ever since i installed blitz oil relocator kit, i noticed the oil pressure goes down after driving awhile. but during morning start pressure raises as usual. its just after driving for several hour i can see the pressure gauges needle just above first line or 1/4 and sometimes warning oil pressure level warning lights up.

what could have cause this?

Zardz15 Explorer

Zardz15

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^^hijack much??

you leave the stock heat exchanger and filter mount as it is. the new oil cooler take off plate just goes on in place of the oil filter. so yes, you need to leave the stock heat exchanger/filter mount alone.

ok thanks man. however i think its pretty shit that theyve made it this way, surely they could have done something to piss that stock heat exchange plate off? oh well hey.....

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Ok thanks man. however i think its pretty shit that theyve made it this way, surely they could have done something to piss that stock heat exchange plate off? oh well hey.....

My guess is; there's no good reason to take it off, so why not leave it on? If oil temp > coolant temp it will be useful. Might also help getting oil up to temp more quickly, which is important.

Zardz15 Explorer

Zardz15

Posted
  • Author
Posted

under the plenum actually, not manifold. but probly not from the front of car, on the side yes probly, but doesnt matter its cool. i havent got the engine in the car yet but im sure its gonna look good

  • 2 months later...
krayzie32 Mentor

krayzie32

Posted
Posted

If you wanna get rid f the whole oil warmer etc etc you need to get your hands on RB20 oil filter mount

straight swap instant delete of whole area you wanna clear up. Swapped mine over when i upgraded from rb20 to rb25 clean and simple.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...