Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl

im dropping an rb25det into my s13. ive searched for answers and asked a few rb25 owners on ns.com but still cant get the right info

so for anyone with an rb25 and a grex/greddy oil cooler and relo kit pls read on and help, im sure its a simple solution but im just unsure

i get how the cooler and relo kit works, its just the part that goes from the engine block to the grex plate that i dont understand how its supposed to attach.

the grex plate doesnt have any bolt holes so it cant go on like that

so, is there some kind of aftermarket adapter plate i can buy? OR do i use the stock plate and stock oil cooler?? i was under the assumption that by running an a/m oil cooler kit that it would eliminate the use of the stock plate and cooler....but maybe im wrong.

so whats the go?? lol

thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312853-rb25-and-grex-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites

Mine came with a centre nut thing that when screwed on holds the plate on. Then you screw on the oil filter to the nut thing. Also ryco Z68 fits onto the Greddy sandwhich plate.

Although mine was just the oil filter kit. No relocation.

it screws on like an oil filter would.

so youre saying i still need to use the stock plate though??

Mine came with a centre nut thing that when screwed on holds the plate on. Then you screw on the oil filter to the nut thing. Also ryco Z68 fits onto the Greddy sandwhich plate.

Although mine was just the oil filter kit. No relocation.

yeah ive got the centre nut thing, however it doesnt screw onto the engine block in anyway unless using the stock plate

heres a pic of the bits ive got:

DSC00489.jpg

the plate up top is the relo plate, the middle plate is the part that would join to the engine block, and theres the centre nut thing at the bottom.

surely you must have to use the stock plate and somehow block off where the stock oil cooler screws on

you leave the stock heat exchanger and filter mount as it is. the new oil cooler take off plate just goes on in place of the oil filter. so yes, you need to leave the stock heat exchanger/filter mount alone.

question....

ever since i installed blitz oil relocator kit, i noticed the oil pressure goes down after driving awhile. but during morning start pressure raises as usual. its just after driving for several hour i can see the pressure gauges needle just above first line or 1/4 and sometimes warning oil pressure level warning lights up.

what could have cause this?

^^hijack much??

you leave the stock heat exchanger and filter mount as it is. the new oil cooler take off plate just goes on in place of the oil filter. so yes, you need to leave the stock heat exchanger/filter mount alone.

ok thanks man. however i think its pretty shit that theyve made it this way, surely they could have done something to piss that stock heat exchange plate off? oh well hey.....

Ok thanks man. however i think its pretty shit that theyve made it this way, surely they could have done something to piss that stock heat exchange plate off? oh well hey.....

My guess is; there's no good reason to take it off, so why not leave it on? If oil temp > coolant temp it will be useful. Might also help getting oil up to temp more quickly, which is important.

under the plenum actually, not manifold. but probly not from the front of car, on the side yes probly, but doesnt matter its cool. i havent got the engine in the car yet but im sure its gonna look good

  • 2 months later...

If you wanna get rid f the whole oil warmer etc etc you need to get your hands on RB20 oil filter mount

straight swap instant delete of whole area you wanna clear up. Swapped mine over when i upgraded from rb20 to rb25 clean and simple.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...