Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've searched a lot but couldn't find the answer to my question.. I can get the RR581 for cheaper than a set of garrett -7. So I was wondering if those Lemans turbo are responsive like the -7 or more laggy like the -5.

So, when does the boost come on on the RR581 ? I have a stock internal R32 with R34 dump pipe and divided twin turbo charge pipe (help spool a tad quicker..).

Thanks!!

I can't comment on the r581 turbs....but the 32 n1 turbos which I understand are essentially the same spec, come on about 4,500 and make power to about 20psi. ie they are utter rubbish compared to any modern ball bearing turbo. Literally 50+kw less at 1000rpm higher.

I can't comment on the r581 turbs....but the 32 n1 turbos which I understand are essentially the same spec, come on about 4,500 and make power to about 20psi. ie they are utter rubbish compared to any modern ball bearing turbo. Literally 50+kw less at 1000rpm higher.

ball bearing is better and easier to rebuilt than journal 360 bearing right?

don't know about easier. bush bearings are cheaper for sure. but 32 n1 runs 270o bush bearing not 360o, not exactly ideal.

ball bearing should cause less drag, faster spool and more power for the same size wheels...

yer ive got 32 N1 on my car, make power too 20psi as duncan said, but dont see full boost to 4.5-4.8k, they are majorly out dated so many better turbos out there these days, If you goin from 32 N1's to -5's you prob wont even notice the lag diffrence, but u deff will be able to make a heap more power. My car will be getting -5's when the engine comes out....

  • 7 months later...

Sorry to dig up old thread, but need to be sure before i make a rushed purchase...

The turbos in question are these follow the link

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ac-t343928.html

but have been advised that turbos are actually 32Nismo (14411-06U00) T04B T3 44.6 - 60.1 62T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 15° 270° ~600PS

but have been rebuilt to the following spec... With photos to back it up...

Nismo GT/le mans (14411-RS581) T04B T3 55T 0.6 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 15° 360° ~640PS

BNR32 & R33 (14411-24U00) T3 T3 42.5 - 60.1 50T 0.42 T25 T25 41.5 - 50.5 62T 0.48 270° Ceramic

~450PS

32Nismo (14411-06U00) T04B T3 44.6 - 60.1 62T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 15° 270° ~600PS

33N1 (14411-24U10) T3 T3 44.5 - 60.1 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 - 53.0 CD79 0.64 360° ~560PS

BNR34 (14411-AA300) GT22

(T3?) C100 39.6 - 56.0 50T 0.53 T25 GT25 41.7 - 50.4 68T 0.48 BB Ceramic

~450PS

34N1 (14411-AA401) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~500PS

34N1 (14411-AA402) T3 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.6 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~500PS

34N1 (14411-AA403) GT22 C106 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~500PS

Garrett 707160-7 GT25 GT25 44.5 - 60.0 55T 0.42 GT25 GT25 42.4 - 53.8 62T 0.64 BB ~500PS

Garrett 707160-9 GT25 GT25 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 GT25 GT25 42.4 - 53.85 62T 0.64 BB ~560PS

Garrett 707160-5 GT25 GT25 47.2 - 60.0 62T 0.6 GT25 GT25 47 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~640PS

Garrett 707160-10 GT25 GT25 51.2 - 71.0 52T 0.6 GT25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~800PS

HKS GT2510 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.1 63T 0.6 T3 GT25 41.7 - 53 62T 0.64 BB ~600PS

HKS GT2530 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.1 63T 0.6 T3 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~640PS

HKS GT2540 T04B T04E 51.7 - 76.2 46T 0.6 T3 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~700PS

HKS GT2835 49.3 - 71.1 48T 0.5 GT28 51.8 - 56.5 84T 0.64 BB ~760PS

HKS GT-SS T04B GT25 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.85? 62T 0.64 BB ~560PS

HKS GT-RS T04E? GT25 51.2 - 71.1 52T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~800PS

Nismo 260RS (14411-RR595) T3 T3 44.5 55T 0.42 T25 T25 41.7 CD79 0.64 360° ~560PS

Nismo for street (14411-RS580) T04B T3 62T 0.42 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 7° 360° ~560PS

Nismo GT/le mans (14411-RS581) T04B T3 55T 0.6 T25 T25 CD79 0.64 15° 360° ~640PS

Nismo R1 (1441A-RSR45) T3 T3 55T 0.42 T25 GT25 62T 0.64 BB ~560PS

Tomei B7655 (173011) 47.7 55T 0.42 T25 T25 47.0 76T 0.64 BB ~500PS

Tomei B7660 (173012) 47.7 60T 0.42 T25 T25 47.0 76T 0.64 BB ~600PS

Tomei B9046 (173013) 51.7 46T 0.42 T25 T25 53.6 90T 0.64 BB ~700PS

few Specs there obviously real world results are different

just need someome to tell me wether i should get the Nismo Le Mans or Not, Have all thw supporting Mods bar Forged Motor...

-5 all the way.

380-400 on a good motor. newer design than the old le mans stuff and more responsive for the power as a result.

but as you don't have a built motor, they are not the best choice.

the -9 would be and are not going past the limits of a stock motor.

to make the most of -5's you really do need a built motor, bit of a head tidy up and so on.

Thanks for replies...

Well looking at above because

purchase price includes turbos, new gasket set, bigger dumps & front, also standard manifolds cleaned up with braided oil & water lines

and as building the motor is eventual goal, i will be looking at utilising the standard motor for putting around duties while looking into rips 30 motor...

Also will be doing turbo replacement myself

so all in all will save quite abit of money, rather than pytting out $2300 for -7s pls extra for lines & gasket kit & bigger dumps front

so to put all that into perspective

How should i approach this...

What would the response be like and how noticeable compared to stock 32gtr turbos

which atm is blown...

-9 are as close to stock as you can get

with -5 there is certainly a noticeable

the le mans would be laggier again realistically as they are old hat now.

so it comes down to how much you wanna spend vs what you are willing to live with if you wanna save 'x' amount.

the garrett value for money is hard to argue for either turbo choice given the results people get.

If ur stock turbo's are blown, didte exhaust wheel shatter?

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but its possible that ur motor has shrapnel in it now and will be next to die soon after.

  • 4 weeks later...

Alright, ive got a set of Nismo Lemans running on my 32, on my last tune the Lemans turbos made 130rwkw at 4500 rpm (this is when the power starts to come on hard, 130rwkw doesnt sound like much i know but by 6000rpm it makes 280rwkw), But for turbo Lag argument sake we'll start at 4500rpm.

compare that with the GT2530 which correct me if im wrong are just the HKS version of garret -5 and are still a resonably decent turbo. According to this graph i found which is based on engine KW's, the 2530s (-5s) make 200 engine kw, which would be what 150rwkw at most?

Now everyones goin to ask what mods i have and what mods the turbos on the graph have . I would assume that as the 2530s (or -5s) are making 601hp and their max combined output is 640ps, they're pretty much at the limit of what they can do and have the correct supporting mods. (dont forget the lemans are rated to 640ps as well so theres not goin to be any top end lost over the 2530's)

Meanwhile on my Lemans turbo set up, i made that power and ive got only a 3 1/2 exhaust with 3 inch dumps with a rubbish set off front pipes, while still running standard cam gears and cams.

I really dont think the lemans are as rubbish as everyone makes them out to be, a bit laggy yes but still a heap of fun. Im sure someone is goin to try shoot me down but meh

will try and get a before and after graph of when i do have front pipes and cam/cam gears instaled... will be soon :rolleyes:

BTW if u want -5s GCG do them for about 2 grand if i remember correctly.. dunno if they come with actuators though

cheers

GT series chart.zip

Alright, ive got a set of Nismo Lemans running on my 32, on my last tune the Lemans turbos made 130rwkw at 4500 rpm (this is when the power starts to come on hard, 130rwkw doesnt sound like much i know but by 6000rpm it makes 280rwkw), But for turbo Lag argument sake we'll start at 4500rpm.

compare that with the GT2530 which correct me if im wrong are just the HKS version of garret -5 and are still a resonably decent turbo. According to this graph i found which is based on engine KW's, the 2530s (-5s) make 200 engine kw, which would be what 150rwkw at most?

Now everyones goin to ask what mods i have and what mods the turbos on the graph have . I would assume that as the 2530s (or -5s) are making 601hp and their max combined output is 640ps, they're pretty much at the limit of what they can do and have the correct supporting mods. (dont forget the lemans are rated to 640ps as well so theres not goin to be any top end lost over the 2530's)

Meanwhile on my Lemans turbo set up, i made that power and ive got only a 3 1/2 exhaust with 3 inch dumps with a rubbish set off front pipes, while still running standard cam gears and cams.

I really dont think the lemans are as rubbish as everyone makes them out to be, a bit laggy yes but still a heap of fun. Im sure someone is goin to try shoot me down but meh

will try and get a before and after graph of when i do have front pipes and cam/cam gears instaled... will be soon :rolleyes:

BTW if u want -5s GCG do them for about 2 grand if i remember correctly.. dunno if they come with actuators though

cheers

why don't youjust look at the dyno results thread?

it will soon show you that -5s are more responsive than 581/lemans, and make more power.

The real crux of the issue is not what happens on a dyno either. It's when you are on the street.

in-between gear changes and so on. newer turbos with ball bearing centers, newer/lighter wheels will flick back up on boost faster.

Something you'll never really be able to tell from a dyno sheet.

People only think 1980s designed turbos are good because they've never had newer tech ones and simply have not seen it for themselves.

Justify it however you want, fact is the lemans turbos in this day and age, are rubbish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...