Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Use what the manual recommends.

Higher octane rating doesn't mean more power, it means the fuel is more resistant to being ignited. So putting like 98ron fuel and octane booster into an old R31 is just going to make your car a son of a bitch to get started and missfire or something.

I wouldn't bother wasting money on BP Ultimate with a normal car just because it has detergent in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313224-fuel-98/page/2/#findComment-5159306
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There is a reason BP98 is the most recommended pump fuel for high performance cars...

and ????????

if you state that then you should state the reason

any 98 is better for a high performance car .

Ultimate offers no gains over Vortex 98 and vica-versa

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313224-fuel-98/page/2/#findComment-5171158
Share on other sites

I beg to differ. Reasons have been pointed out in this thread already.

Not all 98 fuel is the same. It may have 98 octane, but that is just the RON, there is more to fuel than that. My mechanic owns the Glen Forrest Caltex service station, he is highly into cars and is the only mechanic i trust my car with. I asked him what fuel i should be filling up with and he told me BP Ultimate hands down. That coming from the owner of a Caltex. Now I'm not basing my argument on that fact but it does still weigh in.

I've driven with other fuels before. Vortex i don't notice a difference in performance but i don't get the same mileage out of it as i do with Ultimate. I've tested this numerous times, and be it absolutely hammering my car taking it up to redline or driving like a old woman, BP Ultimate comes out on top everytime, i get about 15-20% better efficiency with it. Peak 98 is shocking, i'll never use that again. Car drove like crap and i only got 210km's out of a full tank. I've never used Shell in my car, refuse to touch the stuff after it destroyed my dad's old car.

Point is, you ask anyone that knows anything about fuel and cars, their recommendation is BP Ultimate. Sure it may be similar to other cheap fuels, but cheap Chinese performance parts are very similar to Japanese performance parts... Rule of thumb with cars, you get what you pay for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313224-fuel-98/page/2/#findComment-5171551
Share on other sites

I used peak about a week ago and got 425kms, how the hell did you manage 210kms in a non-turbo.

Hence why i don't like Peak. Went straight back to 500kms to a tank when i filled up with BP again. I wasn't driving aggressively or anything either. May have been a bad bit of fuel, i have no idea, but i've never had a problem with BP. For me it is tried and trusted. I've done my own comparisons and BP stands out. I'd rather pay the extra 5c p/L, or whatever the difference is at the time, for the piece of mind that what i'm putting in my car is healthy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313224-fuel-98/page/2/#findComment-5171964
Share on other sites

Hence why i don't like Peak. Went straight back to 500kms to a tank when i filled up with BP again. I wasn't driving aggressively or anything either. May have been a bad bit of fuel, i have no idea, but i've never had a problem with BP. For me it is tried and trusted. I've done my own comparisons and BP stands out. I'd rather pay the extra 5c p/L, or whatever the difference is at the time, for the piece of mind that what i'm putting in my car is healthy.

Why do you change fuels for in forst place ??

I also prefer to pay a premium for consistency in quality.

Wont ever be consistent in pump fuels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313224-fuel-98/page/2/#findComment-5172195
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...