Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

95 series 1 1/2 R33 complete interior parts no front or rear seats already sold.

R33 rear cradle no diff and breaks

R33 powersteering rack & hubs

R33 Bonnet

R33 series 2 Boot with Wing, rear bar & rear lights

R33 series 1 headlights excellent condition

S15 front 5 stud hubs with breaks off non turbo s15

R33 rear 5 stud hubs no breaks

Series 2 drivers seat no rips or tears

ALL MUST GO PM OR CALL FOR what u need and for PRICE OR MAKE OFFER

0433329781

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313454-wrecking-r33/
Share on other sites

95 series 1 1/2 R33 complete interior parts no front or rear seats already sold.

R33 rear cradle no diff and breaks

R33 powersteering rack & hubs

R33 Bonnet

R33 series 2 Boot with Wing, rear bar & rear lights

R33 series 1 headlights excellent condition

S15 front 5 stud hubs with breaks off non turbo s15

R33 rear 5 stud hubs no breaks

Series 2 drivers seat no rips or tears

ALL MUST GO PM OR CALL FOR what u need and for PRICE OR MAKE OFFER

0433329781

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313454-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5151072
Share on other sites

is that the bit thats rapped around the indicater stalk

its under that, its also is were the bonnet opening handle is, its a long colum, also there is a part there were you can move your steering wheel up and down. about 120cm, just guessing the length, but would be close.. ill find a pic if it helps a bit. im after one with no broken parts :banana:.. thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313454-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5151119
Share on other sites

its under that, its also is were the bonnet opening handle is, its a long colum, also there is a part there were you can move your steering wheel up and down. about 120cm, just guessing the length, but would be close.. ill find a pic if it helps a bit. im after one with no broken parts :thumbsup: .. thanx
is it the one where the fuse box is if so i sold it
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313454-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5151786
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...