Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently finished buiding my r33 from a few bits and peices, engine wise its all standard with 3in exhaust and fmic, pod filter.

it runs fine but hight rpm around 4500 rpm the boost spikes to high around the 14psi mark then the timing retards and i get quiet some noise out the .

the tests i have done on the wastegate shows that at 8psi it starts to open a few mm but does not fully open untill 13psi. the turbo and waste gate are all standard so obviously the boost is way to much and i want it to run standard which i belive should be 8psi.

I was under the impression that the standard waste gate would fully open at 8psi not 13psi. is this correct??

regards adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313915-rb25-r33-wastegate-problem/
Share on other sites

I have recently finished buiding my r33 from a few bits and peices, engine wise its all standard with 3in exhaust and fmic, pod filter.

it runs fine but hight rpm around 4500 rpm the boost spikes to high around the 14psi mark then the timing retards and i get quiet some noise out the .

the tests i have done on the wastegate shows that at 8psi it starts to open a few mm but does not fully open untill 13psi. the turbo and waste gate are all standard so obviously the boost is way to much and i want it to run standard which i belive should be 8psi.

I was under the impression that the standard waste gate would fully open at 8psi not 13psi. is this correct??

regards adam

How are you testing the WG?

If you are doing a static test (ie car not running and just putting air pressure into actuator) the results won't mean anything. The reason is that when the engine is running there is also some exhaust gas pressure on the WG flap that is helping it to push it open...So its opened by a combination of actuator pressure and exhaust gas pushing on it.

From what you are describing the problem may be that the WG flapper is not opening as much as it should. This could be because it is fouling on something in the dump or the linkage is binding or jamming which is stopping the WG from opening as much as it should.

first thing i did was check the wastegate clearance and its all good and not binding at all, its a non split dump and im sure its noting to do with the waste gate. im starting to think the acuator may be a r32 type hence the high pressure to open. im trying to get my hands on a r33 waste gate to test and see what happening.

I have been doing a static test, and it "does not mean nothing" im sure the test is not 100% but i dearly doubt that no exhaust gases would make 8 or so psi difference.

any other thoughts

first thing i did was check the wastegate clearance and its all good and not binding at all, its a non split dump and im sure its noting to do with the waste gate. im starting to think the acuator may be a r32 type hence the high pressure to open. im trying to get my hands on a r33 waste gate to test and see what happening.

I have been doing a static test, and it "does not mean nothing" im sure the test is not 100% but i dearly doubt that no exhaust gases would make 8 or so psi difference.

any other thoughts

Good to see you have checked for binding etc.

Ummm, sorry but I don't agree that the exhaust gases would not make a difference.

Good luck with it...Hope you get it sorted...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...