Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahah, well outside it hasnt changed much lol

Just TE37's in titanium and a new factory splitter is all. I replaced the stereo that had something like 50 hours of japanese pop music on the hard drive... It had a lot of warren G rap music too, which made for a fun drive back home in the car. I gave the paint a much needed 2000 grit rub back and full polish to get rid of the water marks as well, so it looks pretty much like new, bar a few scratches here and there.

Sound Fixed!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hydSzcA_Is

Throttle response should be good. Runs a little better with full sequental injection (despite the air leaks), as opposed to the batch setup I had on the test rig.

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Replies 378
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Na... only sounds angry because im leaning over the engine with the camera when filming the vid. It sounds like a standard engine, except a slightly deeper note.

The cams are stock vspec 2 r34, which may be out about 0.5-1 degree, as the length of the belt and adjustment of the tensioners to get the cam timing 100% is tricky. Ive yet to score some appropriate cam gears for it, but for the moment stock will do.

Edited by GTRNUR

There's something about a standard looking car that has enough power on board to demolish any modern Supercar it may encounter.

Maybe I missed it but who's doing the tune?

Ahk cool :blink:

you can tell the timing belt is new, has the very familiar whirr.

oh BTW the Beetle needs a build thread!

I try to be mindful that a beetle is like the anti-christ as far as cars go, and a skyline is generally seen at the other end of that scale so Im not game to post more than a few pics of the bug. A full buld thread would be pushing it. I have the whole build documented on the aussieveedubbers forum though of your keen.

There's something about a standard looking car that has enough power on board to demolish any modern Supercar it may encounter.

Maybe I missed it but who's doing the tune?

You shoud know since your car does that regularly doesnt it? Not many real super cars up here, though I did see an AMG SL65 Black up here about a month ago.

Tuning is a little ways off yet but when it happens it will be me with assistance from a local performance workshop (Lee Holman SVS) and their AWD dyno. I hope to be doing the run-in on their dyno next week all going well.

The engine has wideband afr and twin egt sensors installed, and just need to wire the egt sensor modules back to the power fc aux box so tuning should be pretty straight forward.

I still need to finish sourcing the remaining upgrade parts before I can do a power tune as well. So far I only have injectors, and have a few more bits to track down. Im not in any hurry though. I'd like the engine to prove itself just driving it normally before I go about wringing its neck.

Standby... fixing the sound...

Yes its Beer Baron's old R34. I nearly said havent changed much on the car... then I re-thought that statement!

lol, yeah it's practically identical to when I had it. :P want to sell it back to me for what you paid? lol.

hey, the warren g was mine! lol. you have no idea how many people offered me money for that hard drive full of J-pop. best feature of the car I reckon. if you ever figure out how to get that music off it I need a copy. actually if you ever want to get rid of the old stezza let me know. I might use it for nostalgia... shame it didn't work here. from memory in japan it had TV, DVD, sat-nav, phone hook-up, voice commands, hard drive. would have cost a bomb in japan.

man it's so close now. I don't know how you can sleep at night!!!

nothing better than being able to say you achieved it all yourself too. I hope the rest of the car does it justice. it was a very neat car though. :D

Alas still no test drive yet. Sorted out the odd idleing issue (carboned up spark plugs), bled the brakes and was about to go for a drive only to discover the clutch wont dis-engage.

So from what I can work out there is 3 possible causes. Either the spline on the carrier is too long, one disc is in backwards on the clutch, or the temporary bolts that are used to compress the diaphram to allow the clutch together have been left inside the pressure plate. Any which way its a gearbox out job again. Thankfully a task I'm not doing!

We'll see how I go about getting some more shop time again next week to sort it out.

Beer Baron, PM me your postal address and I'll COD you the stereo at postage only cost. I tried to read the music off the hard drive but it seems to use a propriatory clarion hard disk partition table. Not readable by windows or lunix or any other tools I tried, so it looks like the music wont ever be able to be read off the drive.

Update.

After much arguing with the clutch adjustment I finally got the clutch to dis-engage. I now suspect there is some sort of issue with the clutch master or slave cylinders resulting in there not being enough fluid flow and thereby travel at the clutch throwout. So Im taking the master and slave cylinders off the car to get them re-sleeved tomorrow

Now that the clutch is "mostly working", I actually got to go for a drive today! Just into the city and back, 20Km round trip in 60-80k zones. All in all the motor feels like it has quite a bit more torque than the standard 26 did, despite me having taken a good 5-10 degrees out of the ignition map around the low speed area. I especially like the urgency the engine has when I blip the throttle to downshift. Its a lot more like a responsive naturally aspirated car.

No cooling issues to speak of, infact the nismo thermostat had the water temps dipping below 70 degrees as the MDF went off scale when I was on the highway. Amazing considering how much grout went into the block and the resulting reduced cooling area around the bottom of the cylinders. Ambient temp was 35 degrees.

Oil temps were consistantly high for light driving (88 degrees), which is to be expected as the oil squirters will be working pretty much all the time with the higher volume tomei pump the engine is using. So the oil is constantly pulling extra heat from the piston crowns even when the engine isnt working that hard. Im still piecing together the external oil cooling components.

That is all for now.

I try to be mindful that a beetle is like the anti-christ as far as cars go, and a skyline is generally seen at the other end of that scale so Im not game to post more than a few pics of the bug. A full buld thread would be pushing it. I have the whole build documented on the aussieveedubbers forum though of your keen.

You shoud know since your car does that regularly doesnt it? Not many real super cars up here, though I did see an AMG SL65 Black up here about a month ago.

Tuning is a little ways off yet but when it happens it will be me with assistance from a local performance workshop (Lee Holman SVS) and their AWD dyno. I hope to be doing the run-in on their dyno next week all going well.

The engine has wideband afr and twin egt sensors installed, and just need to wire the egt sensor modules back to the power fc aux box so tuning should be pretty straight forward.

I still need to finish sourcing the remaining upgrade parts before I can do a power tune as well. So far I only have injectors, and have a few more bits to track down. Im not in any hurry though. I'd like the engine to prove itself just driving it normally before I go about wringing its neck.

Yeah its not exactly slow, ive driven a lot of those "super" cars and most of them arent nearly as quick as shows like Top Gear would have you believe. Its back to the dyno this month, trying to see that big 5 :)

Exactly what parts do you still need? Maybe i have something you can use

Im after a billet earls external inline oil thermostat, and a decent sort of core that will actually fit the front of the car without making it look radically modified. I am still aiming for everything to appear stock. Not sure about the size of the core I want but considering im using a thermostat, the bigger the better so long as it fits and is good quality. So earls or setrab probably.

I use the same billet thermostat on my vw and its excelent (but expensive as I got it from summit racing). It uses -10 size fittings and perfect oil temps all the time. Not in any hurry to chase these parts up. Ive got plenty of things to do before I start stressing about oil cooling.

Edited by GTRNUR

Wow, what are the chances, i have a thermostat from years ago ive never used.

99% sure its earls, do you have a pic of the exact one you want?

Ill try and dig it out, its here in the house but no idea where it is after all this time.

Never used, went with a Jap kit instead, i cant remember if its HKS or Trust but works well, id check but its getting the exhaust fitted and is over there now

If its what you want, its your for postage cost only

Attached is a pics of the thermostat, which is the billet block of alloy bolted onto the return to the dry sump tank. Hope its the right one you have, though failing that the aussie dollar is now buying more than 1 USD now too, so time to go shopping!

post-26553-1288687033_thumb.jpg

Any further thought to the cams you are going to use?

A friend of mine is finally about to put his RB30DETT/-5 combo in (A Racepace motor incidentally, hopefully installed soon), and I do recall discussions being had a while ago when iI thought about 3ltr also that the stock cams indeed would need a bit of an upgrade. Not a lot of cam though, just a mild set.

One would think the usual Poncam could potentially fit that bill quite nicely as they are a mild upgrade.

Marko R1 spent a lot of time deliberating on what cam to go with; I do not think he is disappointed with his choice... he has RB30 with 'RS's too.

He's not disappointed but that doesn't mean there aren't better choices out there.

If I had a curve like his, I'd be dissapointed to be honest.

Aaaaand in saying that, I've got a set of Tomei 280's for sale brand new in boxes, 11.5mm lift, $650 delivered no offers.

That's not the thermostat I've got sorry about that! Looks like it's shopping time for you. Sorry about that!

He's not disappointed but that doesn't mean there aren't better choices out there.

If I had a curve like his, I'd be dissapointed to be honest.

stevo - which graph are u referring to?

Marko R1 spent a lot of time deliberating on what cam to go with; I do not think he is disappointed with his choice... he has RB30 with 'RS's too.

thanks mate - proof is in the pudding with my setup & although i might be biased, paul (piggaz) was very impressed as well as my tuner (jim @ crd) who says that the power delivery is like running 500awkw from a rb26 :P

i wonder what cams rob @ rips recommends lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...