Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ye, mine is hand made, mufflers and all - super custom...

Either way forget the 3" people... he needs 3.5-4" given the power/turbo's he has.

Just go down to any reputable exhaust place near you... or whoever put your car together (im sure they know someone).

Tell them quite simply that you want:

- 3.5" or 4" exhaust

- Twin mufflers.

- Mufflers must be straight through, and must be as big as can possibly fit.

- No big cannon tips. If the rear muffler is 3.5", 3.5" tip etc.

You'll then have a much quieter exhaust than you do now - for about the same cost once you sell off the old exhaust.

There is no issue using restrictors, just control your right foot. It's really not that hard.

I drove around with a restrictor in for 8 months, never took the car past 50% throttle and 3500rpm.

Ye, mine is hand made, mufflers and all - super custom...

Either way forget the 3" people... he needs 3.5-4" given the power/turbo's he has.

Just go down to any reputable exhaust place near you... or whoever put your car together (im sure they know someone).

Tell them quite simply that you want:

- 3.5" or 4" exhaust

- Twin mufflers.

- Mufflers must be straight through, and must be as big as can possibly fit.

- No big cannon tips. If the rear muffler is 3.5", 3.5" tip etc.

You'll then have a much quieter exhaust than you do now - for about the same cost once you sell off the old exhaust.

There is no issue using restrictors, just control your right foot. It's really not that hard.

I drove around with a restrictor in for 8 months, never took the car past 50% throttle and 3500rpm.

thank you mate.

I know I can't control my foot, its hard for me sometime:) I think I better leave the silencer, I don't want make any damage.

do you know HKS SUPER TURBO MUFFLER? on HKS website they rate it 600hp. because I will keep small twin turbo setup forever, so no way pass 600hp.

if this catback not suit for me, I will find some good exhaust shop to made one.:P

The theory of "blocking your nose and see how hard you can blow" may not apply to an exhaust silencer :P

I ran one for like a year on my old S15 that was fairly modified, caned it senseless on a daily basis and it did no damage.

No your dilemma though. I got a 3" Nismo catback on mine, sooo quiet at lower revs, but may need to to go 3.5" and i still want quiet..

Hi everyone, i have full exhaust system, HKS dump and front pipe, trust 94mm catback, it is just too loud for everyday drive. my car made 340KW on 1.45bar, 280KW on 1bar, if I use silencer and low boost, drive it hard, will it damage the engine (maybe too much back pressure)?? i can hear the noise of air resistance when full boost (1bar) over 5k or 6k rpm.

I tried many exhaust shop, only 2 option to quiet my exhaust: 1 is change a small system, 2 is put the silencer in.

anyone give some idea??? i don't want damage the engine by using a silencer:(

thanks!

100% will damage it. if you drive it hard.

100% will damage it. if you drive it hard.

I understand it will damage if drive it very hard. but i mean foot down occasionally and on low boost which is about 14psi. not like drag race, or quick ran on mountain.

but anywhy i need a new system:)

My 2c, if your on a budget and cant replace exhaust at moment, get the apexi ecv but with 95mm internal diameter. its not the flange type, its the pipe one. My car makes over 600rwkw and the thing hasnt broken yet and it does make a difference. \

My 2c, if your on a budget and cant replace exhaust at moment, get the apexi ecv but with 95mm internal diameter. its not the flange type, its the pipe one. My car makes over 600rwkw and the thing hasnt broken yet and it does make a difference. \

Over 600Rwkw?!!!!!! got any pics??? i wanna see this beast mate!

My 2c, if your on a budget and cant replace exhaust at moment, get the apexi ecv but with 95mm internal diameter. its not the flange type, its the pipe one. My car makes over 600rwkw and the thing hasnt broken yet and it does make a difference. \

mate you have 600rwkw with a ecv? how big your pipe is?

can you go full throttle with ecv??

Edited by Nosure

have you guys actually tried to hit boost with a big turbocharger and a restricted exhaust?

The turbo wont even spool up when i had my exhaust restricted. Not sure about other cars though

have you guys actually tried to hit boost with a big turbocharger and a restricted exhaust?

The turbo wont even spool up when i had my exhaust restricted. Not sure about other cars though

yes mate, that what I thought. but my car is easy go up tp 14psi with a silencer. I never tried 20psi.

PS: my turbo is not that big:) only 2 baby t517z

Edited by Nosure
My 2c, if your on a budget and cant replace exhaust at moment, get the apexi ecv but with 95mm internal diameter. its not the flange type, its the pipe one. My car makes over 600rwkw and the thing hasnt broken yet and it does make a difference. \

I just bought a apexi ecv 95mm pipe type.

hope this will work, and no resistance when its open.

:thumbsup:

have you guys actually tried to hit boost with a big turbocharger and a restricted exhaust?

The turbo wont even spool up when i had my exhaust restricted. Not sure about other cars though

thank god at last sombody not just talking shit on the internet! another clasic full of shit thread thanks lads! i agree with guilt toy by the way,unless its like a 1 inch exhaust you may meld somthing due to heat restriction!

Edited by aerofocker
have you guys actually tried to hit boost with a big turbocharger and a restricted exhaust?

The turbo wont even spool up when i had my exhaust restricted. Not sure about other cars though

maybe you got a external wastegate??

i think the actuator type's turbo will still spool up fine with restricted exhaust.

Edited by Nosure

If you put a silencer in, you are effectively making the exhaust what, 2" maybe less? (depending on outlet size).

If you then intend to even ATTEMPT to put your foot down you are going to do some severe overall damage without question.

That much backpressure with turbo's that flow that much is never going to end pretty

tell me about this severe overall damage? the car will be laggy and lose loads of power all over the range and retain heat in the general exhaust area fair enough.

I want to know what dammage you speak of?

You don't just get heat in the exhaust area, there will be excessive heat everywhere...

Try it and see, you can cook the motor. There will be heaps of extra heat in the head, warped head? blown head gaskets? valve issues?

Hell get it too hot and then you can also cause detonation and we all know what happens next.

Your turn.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...