Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have a R33 with a Autronic 500R cdi, I was told when I got it it also had a Autronic ECU, however it needed retuning as the limiter was set lower, never really questioned it before (stupid me i know) but it looks to have a stock ECU, (didnt know much about it at time and thought they maybe were piggy back unit) it has a switch for 10 & 20 psi, On 10 psi it drives fine all the way through the rev range but on 20 it feels like it hits boost cut, cuts out at 5500rpm but will sometimes pull through in 2nd gear to past 7000rpm I do have a dyno sheet for 420rwhp a few years ago so maybe it used to have one, not sure,

Anywho, being as it obviously does not have an ECU aswell, Should I pulll the 500r and go just with power FC or will it be compatable with the 500r, should I just buy a Autronic ecu, does anyone know where and how much to buy the SM4, even second hand, and somebody who can tune it proberly in Brisbane area

Any help or advise would be great,

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314778-autronic-ecu-500r-cdi-unit/
Share on other sites

So it made 300rwkw when you had it?

There is no way that power would have occured on a factory ECU - it would shut down long before that happens as you've found out :worship:

There is nothing particularly wrong with the factory ignition setup, it's fine for 350rwkw without much of a drama.

So if you do go back to a PFC, you could sell off the CDI as well to recoup some costs and just put a factory loom on ($150), and then splitfire coil packs or something ($500 or so).

Not sure what a CDI is worth 2nd hand though... so depending on that would be wether it's worthwhile or not to go that route.

Or as you said, get the Autronic and combine that, although the Autronic is double the cost of a PFC (almost) and costs more to tune as well (unless they are now coming with base maps for RB's?)

Autronics can be installed into a factory ecu case, like on my car, so if anyone has a look it looks identical to the stock ecu until you open the case.

My advice? Open the case and see what's inside before spending any money :D

Ok, yeah I was also told about them being installed inside the stock ECU, I did open it but looks pretty ordinary, not really sure what to look for though but was nothing that said autronic in there, just looked like 1 board, figured it was stock, still has the little red light bulb that can be seen from outside (for fault code?)

As it does not have an airflow meter, I would like to keep it that way, kinda another reason I thought it had the Autronic ECU in it, No it did not make that power with me, never dynoed it, but when it drives through in second gear on 20 psi, it has no issues turning 255/17 tyres to 100+ kph,

It has T70 on it etc, I was given a dyno sheet from few years ago that shows 420.8 rwhp,

since I dont want to spend thousands on another ECU, I am really leaning towards the PFC, Do I need to run an AFM with it or can I use the setup it already has, whatever it is

Can anybody recommend a good place I can take it to so it can be looked at to see what it does and does not have,

I am absolutly lost on this and really need some help,

Not sure what else you need to know

No AFM means there is some aftermarket ECU. A few brands fit in stock housings but there should be a MAP sensor hose into the stock housing if its Autronic.

unless it has the external 3 or 4 bar map sensor... i thought the autronic board was only a 2bar internal mapsensor.. 

Autronic CDI is a Waste spark system with many problems, 2 Capacitors to fire 6 coils.

Go for a PFC or Z32 Nistune and Splitfire coils, Proven efficient setups.

Nothing wrong with wastespark. It has 3 capacitors not 2.

Going to a PFC or other will be a step back, keep the Autronic and take it to someone to check out your issue.

its an autronic, i have one. (smc clunker) 500r is a good unit. try running 1.2mm plug gaps and 30psi with no spark issues with a pfc....

only drawback is they need a external crank rpm pickup once you lean on the motor.

grab a laptop with a serial port, download the software, buy the cable, (sm4) and raise the limiter yourself, but i wouls have it done at a dyno just to be safe..

the software is uber easy to use if you just want to do basic adjustments.

ps. the rpm limit map has coolant temp correction in it. ie can set it so it doesnt rev past 4k if not up to temp etc etc. and hitting overboost will make it cut. all will be revealed once you get into the ecu with the laptop.

Autronic CDI is a Waste spark system with many problems, 2 Capacitors to fire 6 coils.

Go for a PFC or Z32 Nistune and Splitfire coils, Proven efficient setups.

I make 940hp at the wheels on 37psi with an Autronic SM4, autronic CDI and splitfire coilpacks. How much more proven do you need?

Another thing, make sure there isn't an autronic ecu or similar fitting up under the dash and wired in over the top of the standard ecu. Just because there is a standard ecu in the car, doesn't mean it is controlling the fuel and ignition side of things.

I hate buying modified cars with unknown history. It makes issues like these much harder to deal with.

Another thing, make sure there isn't an autronic ecu or similar fitting up under the dash and wired in over the top of the standard ecu. Just because there is a standard ecu in the car, doesn't mean it is controlling the fuel and ignition side of things.

I hate buying modified cars with unknown history. It makes issues like these much harder to deal with.

Aarhhh Trent, You just got the job!!! Keep ya eye out for shit looking maroon 33 lol

Trent are you using an external crank trigger aswel?

Actually we are running a standard R32 GTR CAS with the autronic configured for the output signal for it (this has been made possible thanks to a recent autronic firmware upgrade). Before this (on the drift car) we used the autronic stepper wheel in the standard CAS body which was extra cost and effort).

I would LOVE a external crank trigger set up as I am worried about ignition scatter with the larger cams/springs and at higher rpm, but we haven't had a good chance to get a package sorted for it (been too busy on customer cars). I have spoken to Autronic about it and the requirements aren't too crazy, just some development time on the first one.

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, Thanks to all that helped with this, went to a place today and they told me it definatly did not have an aftermarket ECU, Rang the bloke I got car off and he swears it does, pulled out the glove box and backing and did find it,

Thanks more so to you Trent, as your post made me pull it all apart to find it, It has the SMC unit and the 500r CDi,

More questions, What advantages does the SM4 have over the SMC, obviously newer and more functions but for just a street car, is it worth me going to the SM4?, Will I possibly see any more power with a good tune?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...