Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys im thinking of putting an Apexi AX53B70 turbo (P25 Rear housing) i have lieing around but my budget is abit tight at the moment so my question is, do I really need a z32 afm to run this turbo such that i can make about 350hp?

if not, how much power will the stock r34 neo afm cap me at?

ive been reading up on it and i keep reading different power levels, close to the 300-340mark but id rather find out if anyone has made 350 on a stock one before

Edited by snozzle
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314987-power-limit-of-rb25-afm/
Share on other sites

I'm putting the very same turbo on my 33 in about 2 weeks time with a tomei fuel reg.I'll let you know how it goes.I plan on putting a z32 afm and bigger injectors on it in the future but i just can't afford it right now.I'm afraid that if i try to wait and save the extra money needed,the turbo will never go on the engine due to some unforeseen circumstance.I have the money now to put it on and get it tuned but it would probably be another 6 months if i saved for the injectors and afm. :down:

Slap the turbo on and tune the car to the max potental of your stock injectors, then its a simple tune tweek as you get your afm and injectors. exactly what i have done. I have a hypergear ATR28G4 on a midly modified r33. running .7bar actuator on stock ecu. i have an rb20ecu with nistune ready to fit. next step highflow injectors and z32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...