Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive bought a nistune board and an rb20 ecu to use in my r33 and ive got a frequency switch from jaycar to control the vct.

ive been told the range is around 1800rpm - 4700rpm. should i go straight off this or should i do dyno runs with and without the vct to get it exact?

from what ive read the vct solenoid has a constant ignition feed and a switched earth. so really all i have to do is run an earth to one side of the NO contact and run a wire to the vct solenoid from the other side of the NO contact on the switch and then adjust the switch so that it turns on and off at the desired rpm? and of course have a 12v ignition and earth going into the switch to give it power, and tap into the rpm signal and run that to the switch?

also when adjusting the the actual switch to turn on and off at the desired rpm can i be free revving the car in neutral?

i used a MSD RPM activated switch, it just adds a ground between s certain rpm range than than removes it after that point is reached, effectly turning on , than off the vct soleniod. the msd cost like 80 dollers and looks nice, it can also be used for nitrous and other things

i heard the msd ones were a couple of hundred bucks otherwise i would of got one of them.

crans just check that the battery is alrite 1st, even if u hook up a jumper pack or something then if its still not charging check the basic conections (main pos and neg from battery, and the connections on the starter and alternator) if thats all good then get someone to rev the engine while u got your meter on there if the voltage still isnt going up then its your alternator, most likely brushes or diodes

ive bought a nistune board and an rb20 ecu to use in my r33 and ive got a frequency switch from jaycar to control the vct.

ive been told the range is around 1800rpm - 4700rpm. should i go straight off this or should i do dyno runs with and without the vct to get it exact?

The answer is yes. Since you have gone to so much trouble you may as well get the ideal settings from the dyno. Of course you can set it near enough beforehand and adjust it when you get the opportunity on a dyno.

The frequency switch will only switch it on or off at a set rpm. it isn't a window switch like the msd unit.

You could get it to work that way by playing with the hysterisis but that would only work in one direction (either increase or decrease in frequency) which makes it useless becasue your switch point would have to be at 1100 or so which you just don't see in regular driving unless you stop.

Dave has it right. Just got mine working(not tuned 100% tho) if you are driving revs hit 1200 vct activates you give it some throttle revs climb past 4700 vct turns off you quickly tap the breaks and revs drp below 4700 it dosn't re activate. you have to let the revs drop below 1200 fo it to be able to activate again.

How much for the msd unit and where can i order from?

my home made unit was just tested looks promising just need to sort out a grounging issue which stops the tacho in the dash from working.

rpm counter is slightly off but that dosnt matter quick fix should be a capacitor on the rpm feed to filter out noise

you just set it so it switches the vct off at 4800 or so but it's on the rest of the time. Having it on at idle isn't ideal but doesn't hurt anything from what i've read, if anything it cleans up the idle if you have biggish cams as it reduces the overlap.

Thats how i'll be setting mine up anyway.

I would have liked to get a greddy mss which would have done it properly and is a compact nice looking unit but they are discontinued.

I used the Msd unit when i changed from auto to man and couldn't get the nvcs to work and u can't go wrong with this unit...

Simple to install and adjust to any rpm up to 10k if u wish

U don't want it on at idle bc it makes it idle like shit .... dont know how it will react with bidder cams tho

Ended up sellin it tho bc its difference was verrrrrrrrry minimal on my stock set up

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-8969-DI...S-/300399015408

my home made unit was just tested looks promising just need to sort out a grounging issue which stops the tacho in the dash from working.

rpm counter is slightly off but that dosnt matter quick fix should be a capacitor on the rpm feed to filter out noise

r u talkin about the jaycar unit?

let us know how it goes n if theres any probs,

:)

r u talkin about the jaycar unit?

let us know how it goes n if theres any probs,

:)

nah i built and connected the jaycar unit and it useless it uses low high triggers not rpm window.

A friend is helping me build out own vtc controller using a amtel cpu

yeah, msd went up in price i got mine brand new from local dealer for 90 dealers delivered the next day heh. msd is simple though like 4 wires; pwr, grnd; rpm signal; and one that either adds or removes the ground to the item you wanted to use it on. its liek a gray wire if you want it to have power in the rpm range or a blue wire if you dont want it to have power in that rpm range, quick and easy

  • 3 weeks later...

Just received my MSD RPM window switch. Good looking little unit. Still working on my home made unit but really need the car running properly.

Just reading that it can only ground 2.5amps will i need a relay connected or is the vct load 2.5amps or under?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...