Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My nm35s pop up screen has started to turn off after a 1min or so after I put up the fuel useage function which is then followed by a black screen and some Japanese writing, has anybody got any idea whats happening and how it can be overcome.

gerry, time for the language conversion and all this will be solved because you will see the message in English.

I would guess that you have selected the display to turn off. From memory you need to select the bottom left button then scroll down to the second selection down. This should turn this feature off. (I think)

Cheers

Andy

gerry, time for the language conversion and all this will be solved because you will see the message in English.

I would guess that you have selected the display to turn off. From memory you need to select the bottom left button then scroll down to the second selection down. This should turn this feature off. (I think)

Cheers

Andy

Andy one problem with the english conversion its called money and theres not alot around at the moment. Actually I,ve just gotten onto a Japanese translator locally as I have the full Japanese service history with the car and want to find out if the turbo has been changed, but thanks for your suggestion I,ll try and sort it tomorrow.

Thanks Gerry

Andy one problem with the english conversion its called money and theres not alot around at the moment. Actually I,ve just gotten onto a Japanese translator locally as I have the full Japanese service history with the car and want to find out if the turbo has been changed, but thanks for your suggestion I,ll try and sort it tomorrow.

Thanks Gerry

i would doubt given the fact that the car was only in japan for a few years that they changed the turbo, unless you suspect they have fitted an upgrade/high-flow.

my turbo is heading towards 100,000km's and is still going strong for now.

i would doubt given the fact that the car was only in japan for a few years that they changed the turbo, unless you suspect they have fitted an upgrade/high-flow.

my turbo is heading towards 100,000km's and is still going strong for now.

Stephen I thought I read somewhere that in Japan with the m35s changing turbo,s at 100,000ks is like changing cambelts in the RS4, its done as a precaution, can anybody comment. Also who is the best person in Qld to go to if the turbo does shit itself as I live out in the sticks, again info from anyone.

Cheers Gerry

My suggestion would be to organise a replacement before it fails. It can be done yourself, with the assistance of those of us that have already done it, but I would suggest a hoist, even if you have to hire a workshop for a day.

Best to do it on your terms as Murphys law states it will fail when you need the car most.

Stephen I thought I read somewhere that in Japan with the m35s changing turbo,s at 100,000ks is like changing cambelts in the RS4, its done as a precaution, can anybody comment. Also who is the best person in Qld to go to if the turbo does shit itself as I live out in the sticks, again info from anyone.

Cheers Gerry

Gerry, you could be correct, most of the M35's getting around however have fairly low km's (under 60,000k's) so if you have over 100,000km's maybe it has been replaced.

If you get someone to translate your japanese log book let us know if that was the case (replacement at 100,000).

Good luck

The chances the turbo has been replaced, except maybe under warranty are pretty slim. Mechanics charge more in Japan, and remember, what is a $4k job for us, is more than the car is worth in Japan.

Still, you may get lucky. Is the turbo noisy at all?

The chances the turbo has been replaced, except maybe under warranty are pretty slim. Mechanics charge more in Japan, and remember, what is a $4k job for us, is more than the car is worth in Japan.

Still, you may get lucky. Is the turbo noisy at all?

No scott the turbo is doing everything right but as the car has done 115,000ks its always in the back of your mind, but the previous owner appears to have kept the car fully serviced so lets hope it,ll last for a good while yet, hope I haven,t jinked myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...