Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

howdy there folks!

awhile ago i was curious to see if there was a difference between the stag rs4S rear swaybar and the R33 GTR rear swaybar. so i bought a stock R33 GTR swaybar for $50 just to compare.

post-41608-1270549000_thumb.jpg

as u can see their profile is indentical, but the GTR one is 2mm thicker (however they are both hollow).

RS4Spost-41608-1270549115_thumb.jpg

GTRpost-41608-1270549214_thumb.jpg

now i was scepticle that a stock GTR bar would be any better, but i installed it anyway just to try it and it definately feels tighter. Although the increase in bar size is only small the whole car feels more stable in corners. i was quite surprised by the results. i thought id take some pics along the way to help out anyone who is thinking of trying it for them selves.

Now this is only for those of us with RS4S stageas. there is no guarantee the gtr bar will fit an auto stagea as the rear subframes are different. i will look at it later in the yr when i try it on my mates auto stag.

before we start the disclaimer: this is a guide only and i accept no responsibilty for any damage or injury sustained by you or your property by attempting this. your on your own out there kids!

1st the only tools u need is: 1 can of wd40 or equivilent (not essential but it helps), 10mm open ended spanner, 12mm socket or ring spanner and a 14mm socket or ring spanner.

2nd jack up the rear of ur car and support it on chassis stands.

3rd undo the end links by holding the rod with the 10mm spanner and undo the nut on the bottom with the 12mm

post-41608-1270549460_thumb.jpg

4th now undo the swaybar mount bolts. you must remove the front bolt completely, but the rear bolt only needs to be loosened.

post-41608-1270549514_thumb.jpg

5th remove the swaybar. it may take a little manuvering to get it over your exhaust but i should come out easily. notice the rear mount bolt remains as the bracket is slotted.

post-41608-1270549588_thumb.jpg

6th give the bolts and links a bit of a clean off with WD40 or wire brush or even just a rag. the dirt on the threads makes them hard to do up.

post-41608-1270549738_thumb.jpg

7th take the mounts and rubbers off your swaybar and put them on the gtr one.

8th now just put it all back together in reverse order. but pay attetion to the following points:

if your having trouble with the swaybar fouling on the exhaust while trying to do up the mount bolts u may need to lower it out of the way. just remove the rubber hangers at the rear.

ensure all the bolts are done up nice and tight.

if you let your exhaust down dont forget to hang it back up.

well there you go. for $50 and an hour or two, you too can tighten up your rear.

thanks for reading. i apologise if i wasted your time, i tend too ramble on a bit.

Edited by Raysboostin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315591-diy-stag-rs4s-rear-swaybar-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Heavier rear swaybar is the single best thing you can do to stop your Stagea floating around corners.

For the RS4T (awd auto) you need a BNR11XX24mm (add a Z for adjustable). This is a solid steel 24mm bar and a huge upgrade. The label might be different but if you quote those references they should be able to find the equivalent.

Installation as above (or check SKs supension thread). Don't forget to use the supplied lubricant on all the bushes.

ive played this game before

this isnt an easy upgrade for an auto RS4

i learnt the hard way

Just confirming for everyone that the RS4S rear bar won't fit a series 2 auto stagea due to the difference in rear sub-frames.

just lucky i got a manual :P

Good write up this! Cheers :P

thanks, i thought i should give a little something back to the forum that has helped me

Ive got a whiteline rear swaybar from the sydneykid group buy ages ago for sale, its to suit an auto rs4 (wont fit rs4 s manual models). I swapped a 260rs cradle into mine so its no longer suitable.

anyone keen im chasing $100 + delivery for it as im in Perth. Should be around $20ish depending on where u live.

PM if your keen

At what point did this become the everybody advertise your swaybars for sale thread?? oh well as long as the moderators dont mind i guess its ok.

sorry dude, didnt mean to hijack, just trying to help someone out on a bargain. ive done my fair share of info sharing on stageas over the past 6 years so im sure the mods arnt too fussed :P

sorry dude, didnt mean to hijack, just trying to help someone out on a bargain. ive done my fair share of info sharing on stageas over the past 6 years so im sure the mods arnt too fussed :P

its cool man, ive read pretty much all your stuff its been helpful. i just dont want the mods to lock the thread cos its against the rules 2 advertise stuff 4 sale outside of the 4 sale section. but like u said i dont think they r too fussed. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm thinking that this is such a small part of the problem that you could easily forego the vac pump and just achieve 90% of what you need, which is keeping the gate open when off boost. It's not as if there are not already techniques to keep a gate fully closed under boost. After all, you have boost. Just use a wastegate actuator that will allow you to apply the boost on the appropriate side, just like every external gate out there.
    • Heres another fitment photo. redrilled the pattern to 5x112, and threw my audi´s rims on. had to touch the upper control arms with grinder, because the "sharp corner" was sticking about 2-3mm on the tire path. i have the "fender lip" mostly cut off, otherwise these (too) would contact with it. 20x9.5 ET25 rear    265/30 20x8.5 ET20 front    255/30 they are temporary, and look too big for the chassis. searching for 19s to it.
    • From experience, it will come back to bite you haha.
    • Background: my BMW 225i hatchback (rebodied MINI/X1) came with 3x RE003 and 1x Goodyear Asymmetric something. The RE003 roared and slid around, the Goodyear side was quiet and grippy. Definitely my car was thrashed before it got sent to dealers. My brother also got RE003 all round on his old VA WRX STI, I wasn't impressed with them, car was loud so can't comment on noise. Anyway, Hankook stopped making/updating V12 Evo2. So bought S1 Evo3 runflats. Great daily duties tyre and not that harsh ride. Tyre reviews site/youtube rated them as best stopping in the rain and I believe them. Next set, Goodyear Asymmetric 5 non-RFT. It beat PS4 in tests and is like $100 cheaper, so put them on. Great tyre, more grip then S1 Evo3 but a tad noisier as expected, still rocking them. Next set I am looking to go runflats, probably the new Hankook Evo. Although the new Pirelli PZ5 did well in tyrereviews test. Or go Goodyear Asymmetric 6 which was top tyre last year. The V12 Evo2 on my gen5 Liberty GT wagon did great in cold condition (drove to snowy mountains for a day so my husky can feel his ancestor's roots). Super impressive performance for $120 each lol. Never skimp on tyres, brakes, suspension. There's old pics of my R31's crappy random brake pads bending in the caliper at Oran Park track day somewhere around here. Anyway, my 2 cents.
×
×
  • Create New...