Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys

Does anyone know what mods are required to put an exhaust designed for a R34 GTR into a R33 GTR?

I am tired of clearance and noise issues on my R33 GTR and am looking at a nismo NE1 which should in theory should provide better clearance and be acceptable noise wise without stealing too much power. Problem is I can only seem to source units for a R34 GTR.

All help appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315693-r34-gtr-exhaust-into-r33-gtr-issues/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Should be bolt on/off for the most part. Depending on the exhaust you *might* have to modify the hanger mounts a tiny bit.

I'm certain i have a R34 GTR cat-back exhaust on my R33 at the moment as 2 of the hangers didnt line up exactly when we were installing it a couple months back and the exhaust hangers had no signs of being modified.

As a result the exhaust doesn't quite sit perfectly. The only thing was we had to modify one of the exhaust hangers to get it to sit right (literally just heated it up and bent it to suit).

Given i'd just blown my pervious exhausts muffler apart, and replacement was $100 as a temp fix - modification was the only option :D

Whats the incredibly obvious answer?

I'm looking at catback system.

Anyone? :) direct answer.

Shake the Magic Eight Ball and the response will come back "outlook bleak". Although if just doing the cat back, it might fit with some minor mods and bashing. It's unlikely to be an ideal scenario, however.

Why don't you buy an exhaust for an R33 GTR instead?

I've got the Kakimoto system off my 34 GTR sitting in the garage.

If anyones got a 33 GTR they want to trial fit it to check the fitment there welcome to come over.

I live Brisbane Nth side...

Noy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...