Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i have a rb26 it has 700cc injectors power fc rb25 afms ect.. i had hks gtss turbos on it before i took the turbos off to upgrade the car was tuned and running fine not one miss ect... now ive installed twin high mount td05s and it wont start, in know it wont run perfect if if was to start but it wont start? could it be the plugs? theres no spark coming from the plugs but theres none from the coil packs either?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315826-rb26-wont-start-after-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

If your not getting any spark then you need to check why, that will be your problem.

When i first started my Silvia after rebuilding the engine it took a bit before it started and actually ran nicely as the inlet manifold had been sitting around all that time and i hadn't cleaned the injectors, (lazy i know) so i presumed that was the reason why as it could of had some stale fuel in there,

But if your not getting any spark you need to find out why first check all your connectors etc

As above, check that the crank angle sensor is working (test it out of the car to see if you can get spark). Obviously check that everything is plugged in, but start at the CAS and work your way back towards the ECU. Make sure you have fuel etc.

Yeah mate, if you're not getting spark you're never going to start the engine =P as the previous kids mentioned check the loom and connections, also check the grounding on the loom. If you have an ignitor module check that. Bust out the multimeter and check that you are getting power and signal properly to the pins back to the ecu if need be, you gotta find out why. Obviously check the ignition =P

As there's no spark from the coils it means it's not the plugs too, it's at or most likely before the coils (before if all coils aren't firing pretty much)

Good luck!

Edited by WhatBrake

ok just quick question i pulled the coil packs out and put the spark plug in the coil and grounded the plug and no spark (not sure if stuff plug or no spark) but when cranking it if i look into the coil pack should there be spark coming from them even tho its not grounded and no plug?

ok just quick question i pulled the coil packs out and put the spark plug in the coil and grounded the plug and no spark (not sure if stuff plug or no spark) but when cranking it if i look into the coil pack should there be spark coming from them even tho its not grounded and no plug?

The plug should be near a ground metal and when you crank it there should be spark from the plug not form the coil. If no spark , plugs can be bad and also check your coils to.

given youve done a lot of work, check the basics

check all wires and sensors, check all basic engine functions, check power, check plugs etc

check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller for sensors with black names (highlighted)

after you;ve done all that, run a re-check of everything and then isolate

air, fuel, spark

if you have all 3 it should start and crank over

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...