Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I have a S2 RS4S. We purchased it about six moths ago. It has always bugged me that the brake lights in the tailgate dont come on, however the tail lights do. I just spent a couple of hours investigating this problem and it seems their is a duel filiment globe in the tailgate (21/5W) however whoever complied the car has modifyed the wiring so there is only tail light power going to the globe. I traced the wiring loom back to the main plug in the body of the car but cannot figure out where the brake light power has been cut. If anyone can shed some light on this issue and some advice on how to reconnect my brake lights it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316215-brake-lights-in-tailgate-on-s2/
Share on other sites

did they change the plug as well? how many wire it got?

how about the brake light on the top of tailgate? if that one is working, you can connect the side brake light to the top one, it will work.

that happened to my car as well until I bought another set of taillights which comes with the original wire from japan.

I don't know why the compliance workshop needs to do that, anyone know?

did they change the plug as well? how many wire it got?

how about the brake light on the top of tailgate? if that one is working, you can connect the side brake light to the top one, it will work.

that happened to my car as well until I bought another set of taillights which comes with the original wire from japan.

I don't know why the compliance workshop needs to do that, anyone know?

The brake light in the spoiler (top of the tailgate) works and as a last resort i may have to tap into it (however the wiring may not cope with the extra current draw). Their is only two wires in the plug at the moment, one tail light power and earth but the plug can take three wires the third being brake light. the brake light power wire is missing altogether. Did your new lights plug in and work or did you have to wire them in. Replacing the plug wont help me as i have no brake light power source in the bottom of the tailgate.

Thanks for the reply.

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement.

No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option.

I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement.

No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option.

I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

The globe is a duel filiment ie one for Brake and one lower wattage for taillights. I agree they would have cut a wire but the trouble being i cant find where they cut it. It was cut pre tailgate loom. the plug may have been replaced or a wire taken out of the terminal.

find out the easiest/quickest access point to the wiring harness and look for a cut wire. i doubt if a compliancer would waste his/her time doing it properly. just a quick snip job.

I will have a look at mine on the weekend as I too now want dual brake lights!

here's a pic of the s2 lights i imported from japan. all boxed and wrapped when i got them.

so doubt very much compliance would touch em. maybe done for some reason back in japan?

there's no + wire in the globe socket or loom socket for brake.

i'll check my car tmoz, see if there same or different.

post-38314-1271066813_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1271066824_thumb.jpg

The brake light in the spoiler (top of the tailgate) works and as a last resort i may have to tap into it (however the wiring may not cope with the extra current draw). Their is only two wires in the plug at the moment, one tail light power and earth but the plug can take three wires the third being brake light. the brake light power wire is missing altogether. Did your new lights plug in and work or did you have to wire them in. Replacing the plug wont help me as i have no brake light power source in the bottom of the tailgate.

Thanks for the reply.

Hi I have a 2001 S2 Stagea RS4S and I just had a look at the wiring behind the tailgate brake / parker lights and it looks to me like the brake lights has never worked, mine only has a Earth and the Parkers power wire connected, there is a third connection but it has never had a wire crimped in the lug, unless the import completely replace my wiring loom it's never worked

Phill

I am gonna suggest its a jap thing. My Pulsar has the same setup with lights inside the tailgate not actually being operable. The JDM version of this model have JUST tailights in the tailgate, but there is a quite widely known mod to get them working as tail & brake lights by using another feed for the tailights, and dragging a brake light feed from the tailgate spoiler light. AFAIK a brake light doesnt use that much current draw, and its not on for that long anyway, so I would take the feed from the high level brake light. You could always fuse it if you are too paranoid...

now this is just gonna bug us who only have the outer lights working ;)

it's easy enough to run a wire around to the top led brake light i reckon,

except that plastic trim seems pretty damn hard to get off.....got good clips.

side note.

I had the same brake light experience with my old vc commodore, bought a different socket

with the extra brake light contact, ran the extra wires to the existing setup and all good, never

blew a fuse. I also had 20 led brake light mounted on the parcel shelf.

From memory my old series 1 r31 skyline was the same, it had series 2 round lights i got of a mate

and went through the same process.

p.s.quick edit....both the r31 & vc also towed a trailer with supporting brake/parker, indicator, number plate lights.

recap never blown a fuse.

Edited by Stagea_Neo

In my experience most light circuits can take the load: in a few of my previous cars I ran all the wiring for my jet ski trailer off the drivers side tail light: never blew a fuse either...

  • 2 weeks later...

Mine work now :P

Here's some pic's of where i fed the wire through.

Basically I spliced and soldered into the existing loom at the top brake light.

Fed power wire through with flexible aluminium wire, thinner/softer than a coat-hanger.

The brake light socket in the tailgate already had a spare terminal in it, had to push a little locking tab in so i could pull it out

just crimped my wire on to it, bent the tab back into place and wedged it back into the socket.

Trim was fairly easy to remove, plastic and metal clips behind it, be firm but gentle.

post-38314-1272269762_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269771_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269777_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269789_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269802_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269807_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269814_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1272269821_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...