Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think TE37s are only available in +12? I think you'll need to roll guards for 10.5 +12, you will have more chance of not having to roll guards with 10.5 +22.

9.5 +12 you should be able to fit with a bit of camber. Safe choice is the 9.5 +22.

My car as reference, fronts are 8.5 +14 and rears are 10.5 +24

EDIT : Fronts are running 3.5-degrees camber, rears are around 3-degrees.

GTCFrontOffset.jpg

2998_RearOffset.jpg

Edited by Kam-80
Looking for a set for my zed and was wondering whats the best offset in 18's? Will 18x9.5 +15 (F) and 18x10.5 +15 ® fit? It will be on standard suspension and don't want to roll guards if I don't have to. Cheers

Neither will fit unless you stretch a narrow tyre.

For TE37s +22 offset in those widths is the accepted limit for stock guards and camber.

Roll the gear guards and get camber arms on the front, and those things will fit just fine with a reasonabe-size tyre.

Yeah, the thing is f**ked.

Send me an email, from the email address you want to use, to 350z-tech-mod @ au-z.org (sans spaces, of course) with your desired user name.

Edited by scathing

I have no idea what offset I run, but my rear wheels are 10.5", and I have acres more space available: glancing at it, I don't think I'd have too much trouble fitting 11.5" - 12" rears, and I'm running very little negative camber from what I can tell... Is this normal?

mine are 10.5 +18 and i am running -2.5 deg camber, but my tyre us a 295 so that explains why. if u go and start stretching rubber possible to fit lower offsets such as negatives under there with ease. 19 x 11 +0 offet for starters ;)

Looks tough! What are they? At first, i thought they were drifteks but drifteks dont have those offsets. Bee-r b5? BTW youre on ocau?

Rota P45-R lol. had no complaints on the US forums so thought why not....

$3.4k delivered with tyres mounted/balanced.

Yup! I'm on ocau!

yo!

front: 18/19*9.5+12

rear: 18/19*10.5+12

proof:

1235415115.jpg

1227557628.jpg

1235415153.jpg

as a reference in the pic, they are 19s with, 245/35 tyre front, and the rear is 275/35, you can easily run a 235 or 225 on the front and say a 255 on the rear if you want them stretched (but not crazy stretched lol) :D

edit - i just re-read your first post - to achieve "perfect" fitment it isnt all just about what wheel to run, is a culmination of wheel sizes/tyre sizes/suspension/wheel alignment/body work

my350z_20070929_nightshots_09.jpg

my350z_20071013_night_12.jpg

F: 18x9.5 +22 with a 255/35 R18

R: 18x10.5 +22 with a 285/35 R18

Note that my rear guards aren't rolled, and I didn't have camber arms in the front at the time. That setup doesn't rub, and I've had that car cornering flat out. You can run a slightly lower offset, but I doubt +15 will fit without stretching a tyre.

Edited by scathing
Note that my rear guards aren't rolled, and I didn't have camber arms in the front at the time. That setup doesn't rub, and I've had that car cornering flat out. You can run a slightly lower offset, but I doubt +15 will fit without stretching a tyre.

11" +10 with 275/30 on the rear of my car standard height, the guards were munching the tyres on bumps and that.

So anything lower then +15 stretched tyres is a must, unless you wanna run some crazy camber or stiff as Fark springs lol

Edited by Beez35
OMG those rotas are HOT

can i ask if you need any mods to run those size rims?

like adjustable camber arms?

thnx

thanks! nope no mods at all. I'm running greddy s-type suspension as well, been dropped about 1-2" not sure....i want to drop it more but i might have driveway issues which i don't want.

Have to roll the rear guards if i want to drop the rear anymore though. No camber wear as such yet too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...