Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, So I finally got my Skyline that I was waiting so long for and I wanted to share it with you guys.

I plan on joining the NSW branch of SAU and I wanna come meet up with you guys so I can learn more about my car and learn about alll the features and best tweaks for it.

Pictures below:

post-69449-1271169720_thumb.jpg

post-69449-1271169752_thumb.jpg

post-69449-1271169802_thumb.jpg

post-69449-1271169829_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316608-ericjayrols-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt/
Share on other sites

umm...

Nissan Skyline R34 25GT 2000 Model.

2.5L Inline 6, 24 valve, twin cam

93,600Km's on the clock

What else would u like to know, keeping in mind that im not a mechanic or expert =)

Congrats.

Auto or manual?

Suggested entry level mods:

- Put some nice tasteful 17" or 18" wheels - should look good - Especially since you already have a body kit.

- Window tint

- Replace the head unit with a 4x50W system - You will be surprised how much the stock speakers can handle.

- Since its a non-turbo - put a high flow panel filter and high flow cat - I wouldn't really bother with doing any other mods to the engine - the Nissan engineers have already done a pretty good job IMHO. Well maintained is the way to go - use the best oils, fluids, filters and maintenance items.

- Be prepared to change your timing belt and coilpacks (If they haven't been changed) - If there is no record of them being changed assume they have not been - get it done soon.

Enjoy your ride! :D

nic, It is completely standard aside from the side skirt that the dealer decided to put on for some reason, probably just to give it a sportier feel =P

I plan to do the audio as soon as I get the money together, other than that I want to keep it mainly stock unless the mod bug bites me and I get an urge to do something to it.

iseekool, Its Manual, I wouldn't dream of putting my hard earned cash into an auto sports car, even if it is a sedan four door.

I actually like the factory rims, i've never really been one for rims, which i see as a good money saver =)

I do plan on putting a darker tint on it, any recommendations on a good place near sydney?

The audio is a definite, Im gonna get a decent double din and sub, and im tossing up whether or not to run an amp to the stock speakers to boost them up a bit, any pointers?

Exhaust is a usual definite, but i've decided to wait until I have spare cash laying around and I dont wanna put it anywhere else, then I'll do it, keep my police attention minimal, so they wont have the camera lined up when im coming from the other side of the hill =P

Thanks for the service information, that is the most helpful thing i've heard, I knew about the timing belt, but the coilpacks is news to me, thank for that :D

I don't like your shoes, at all.

That being said, picked up a nice example. Looks pretty clean.

I'll give my opinion on what I reckon you can do to make it awesome.

Service as per what iseekool has said.

Take off that god-awful sideskirt!!

Dark tint

Air filter

Amps can be wired into your factory setup, but i'm f**ked if i know how. Audioexperts are everywhere though.

Aftermarket coilover suspension (corners at reasonable speed is what makes a sports car enjoyable)

Exhaust

Rims.

Buy my spare wheels imo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/18...-Y-t310269.html

also, congrats :) if you want to meet and greet lots of SAU NSW guys a thursday night coastie cruise might be a good start. often 20 or 30 cars on a good night. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/We...-2-t190095.html

Thanks for all the mod suggestions guys, Keep em up, Im happy to get suggestions given to me.

Does anybody know where I can get a GTR stock wing? That would fit onto it well wouldn't it?

Also, any suggestions on a bodykit that would match the sideskirt? though, I was hoping not to lower it so much that I need to do 10kms down bumpy roads :D

I was going to head to that Thursday cruise tonight, but i've got a family dinner I need to attend, I WILL however be joining in on one of those as soon as I get a free Thursday

  • 2 months later...

Update

Put on a new wing, when the shop took off the lip they told me I had a 6 inch hole leftover :yes:

I came down to check it out before they did anything else, and found out they were talking about the hole where the boot lid brake actually goes, so I got one of those and put it in aswell.

I will get a photo with the brake light in it during day time aswell asap.

Basically, here is a photo of the before and after:

Before

img0020ud.th.jpgimg0086tz.th.jpg

After

img0187s.th.jpgimg0188r.th.jpg

  • 4 months later...

my fav model i own a red 1 in QLD just wondering if u have the inbuilt gps and DVD player coz mine dose but its still in asian a i want 2 convert it 2 english but i still want it 2 fold down.

and body kits where is a good place 2 get a 4door body kit.

if any 1 could help me that would be sick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...